Someone paste me the URL for EGR removal help
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Someone paste me the URL for EGR removal help
Someone copy and paste me a link for the EGR removal help if you know one, like this site for AIR http://www.zmydust.com/airpump.html. right in the middle of this and am slightly confused.
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Re: Someone paste me the URL for EGR removal help
It relatively easy. How much of the system do you want to remove? Are you running or installing headers that don't have the EGR connection on #8 primary?
Remove the corrugated tube, and block the hole in the manifold or headers (if you have one) and the hole on the back of the intake manifold with blocking plates. Use sensor-safe sealer on the plates, or salvage the gasket. You can get the plates ready-made from:
www.sjmmanufacturing.com
Your system is now inoperative.
To continue with remove, unbolt the EGR valve from the back of the intake, and block with yet another plate. Sealer and/or gasket.
Now you have the EGR solenoid, on a bracket at the back end of the intake. Unbolt the bracket and remove bracket with solenoid, along with the vacuum line from the manifold to the solenoid, and the vacuum line from the solenoid to the EGR valve. Cap the vacuum nipple on the drivers side of the intake manifold with the correct size vacuum cap.
Address your "code/SES" problem - note: on OBD-II, this will almost always give you a code for no EGR flow. On OBD-I it usually does not set a code, but it can.
To get rid of both potential codes (no EGR flow, faulty circuit on EGR solenoid) you can have the diagnostics programmed out of the PCM, but you will get a "system not ready" if they hook a scanner up for emissions. You can spoof the EGR flow code with a circuit that uses the EGR solenoid activation signal to switch a resistor into the MAP circuit when the EGR solenoid is cycled by the diagnostic routine. You need to do a search to fnid the circuit. You can eliminate the code for the missing solenoid by inserting a resistor of the same ohms as the solenoid into the pins in the harness connector.
Photo by Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg
Remove the corrugated tube, and block the hole in the manifold or headers (if you have one) and the hole on the back of the intake manifold with blocking plates. Use sensor-safe sealer on the plates, or salvage the gasket. You can get the plates ready-made from:
www.sjmmanufacturing.com
Your system is now inoperative.
To continue with remove, unbolt the EGR valve from the back of the intake, and block with yet another plate. Sealer and/or gasket.
Now you have the EGR solenoid, on a bracket at the back end of the intake. Unbolt the bracket and remove bracket with solenoid, along with the vacuum line from the manifold to the solenoid, and the vacuum line from the solenoid to the EGR valve. Cap the vacuum nipple on the drivers side of the intake manifold with the correct size vacuum cap.
Address your "code/SES" problem - note: on OBD-II, this will almost always give you a code for no EGR flow. On OBD-I it usually does not set a code, but it can.
To get rid of both potential codes (no EGR flow, faulty circuit on EGR solenoid) you can have the diagnostics programmed out of the PCM, but you will get a "system not ready" if they hook a scanner up for emissions. You can spoof the EGR flow code with a circuit that uses the EGR solenoid activation signal to switch a resistor into the MAP circuit when the EGR solenoid is cycled by the diagnostic routine. You need to do a search to fnid the circuit. You can eliminate the code for the missing solenoid by inserting a resistor of the same ohms as the solenoid into the pins in the harness connector.
Photo by Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg
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