LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

So she's finally alive, but not without issues of course (video)

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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:02 PM
  #31  
SS RRR's Avatar
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by 526 SS 96
You are a real asset to the community, and a productive participant in this thread.
As are you when badmouthing a technique that has been used for decades.
As stated there are ways to adjust them while the engine is running w/out dealing with an oily mess. Another example is getting a valve cover and cutting it in half so the adjusting nuts are exposed.
The clips do work. I've used them for those w/ mild cams and pro mags. Perhaps you just don't understand how they work?
Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:54 PM
  #32  
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From: dallas tx
if you are fairly certain that you set them right i would not adjust running or not. the fact that there is no oil getting to the top end and that the ticking got louder makes me suspect that you have no oil pressure and the lifters bled down.

also i think the original poster understands by now that there are two methods of setting valve lash and that peoples opinions and prefrences are very different.
Old Jan 7, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #33  
showstoppers-96-Z/28's Avatar
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From: virginia
Unhappy

Originally Posted by greenmachinedriver
if you are fairly certain that you set them right i would not adjust running or not. the fact that there is no oil getting to the top end and that the ticking got louder makes me suspect that you have no oil pressure and the lifters bled down.

also i think the original poster understands by now that there are two methods of setting valve lash and that peoples opinions and prefrences are very different.
Exactly, this always happens with a thread where there is more than one "popular/correct" way of doing things, everyone has their own preference and everyone does things differently, arguing how to set the valve lash is not going to help him get oil to his top end. I've heard HV pumps are junk and lots of builds go with them only to soon regret them stripping the oil pump drive gear. Get ur new sensor in, check the oil pressure, pick a method YOU preffer and reset ALL of ur valve lashes then go from there...no oil coming through the pushrods sounds like bad news (i hate to say). good luck with it, let us know what you find
Old Jan 7, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #34  
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From: Lancaster, Pa
Well thanks a lot for the help so far guys. My oil sending unit SHOULD be here tomorrow, then I will get started. As of now, here is my "potential problem" checklist I have compiled to hopefully get this thing in tip-top shape once again:

1. Replace oil sending unit

2. Adjust all rockers correctly

3. Remove and seal up EGR block off plates (I forgot to seal them before and I recently learned there could be a leak if I don't)

4. Shoot some oil all over the valvetrain before covering up again

If there's anything else you should think I should look into, let me know.

Thanks a lot (pray for me lol )
Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:52 AM
  #35  
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the oil sending unit is electrical and no oil to the top end is mechanical. Pull your spark plugs disconnect or unplug your fuel pump via fuse, squirt some oil in your cylinders and install a mechanical oil guage. turn motor over with out plugs with the starter and verify oil pressure. There are 5 parts to the oil pump. Oil pickup, oil pump, oil pump sleeve to oil pump shaft, oil pump shaft, oil pump drive gear.
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 02:30 AM
  #36  
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From: smithtown, NY
its so easy.. i dont see the rocker debate as having any point. put em on, snug them down properly, start the motor with the covers off and if theres no tapping.. your good. just dont overtighten them
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 07:22 AM
  #37  
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From: lakeville, pa
Originally Posted by sn8ke eatr
its so easy.. i dont see the rocker debate as having any point. put em on, snug them down properly, start the motor with the covers off and if theres no tapping.. your good. just dont overtighten them
that was the debate, but its over now. to each their own
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