Yeah, the gauges stay up in the position they were at even after I turn off the car. I ordered next-day shipping on the sender unit like late friday or saturday so it should probably be here today.

 

here is a link. 3 different ways. try the method one

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

 

its obvious you have never tried it, it is very simple to isolate you can see the rocker moving on the stud, and even if you couldnt you just start at the front and do them all

 

Doing a runing adjustment is not nessicary.
It gets very messy once the oil starts flowing, plus you are breating all of that exhaust, not to mention hot underhood parts ect. I used to do running adjustments all the time, it's really just better/ more comfortable to adjust them with the engine off.

Adjusting valves is easy. This is my method.

1) Install pushrods and rocker arms

2) By hand install all of the locking nuts (do not install locks at this time, compleetly remove them and set them aside).

3) Turn the engine over untill some of the valves are in the open posion. Keep rotating the crank untill you observe maximum lift. You don't need a dial indicator here just close 'nuf.

4) You are now ready to adjust the adjasent rocker arm of the same cylinder.

Note: Step #3 insures that the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. If the lifter is any where on the lift part you will adjust the rockers wrong! This is because you are now tightening against the valve spring and lifter, this will make the rocker higher than it needs to be. You will notice that on the next engine rotation that particular rocker will not be adjusted right. Step #3 also assumes that the intake is on the engine and you can't see the lifters.

5) Loosen the adjusting nut untill the rocker just flopps arround.

6) Begin tightening the nut by hand while lifting up and down on the rocker arm on the push rod side. (forget that spin push rod garbage )

7) Continue tightening by hand untill the rocker arm has no vertical movement. This is zero lash.

8) At this point a decision needs to be made with regard to your preload setting. A stock hydraulic lifter takes between 1/4 and 1/2 turn, still other lifters require less like 1/16th tun, and some lifters either run at zero or with lash in which case you would need a feeler gauge. Consult the lifter manufactureure for this part.

9) Install the nut lock. Thread them in by hand.

10) Grab a box end wrench and hold back the nut while you tighten the lock. Use a medium length allen wrench and snug it down pretty tight. I typically use my thumb untill I get some wrench deflection.

11) Lastly take the box end wrench and tighten the nut another degree or two. This will ensure that the locks are set.
NOTE: When removing the nut (for any reason) don't break them loose at the lock. Instead, loosen the nut first then hold back the nut while you remove the lock. This will help preserve the threads on the locks and nuts.

Thats it! Then continue down the line roating and adjusting untill you run out of locks.

The oil pressure guage being maxed out at key on is a sign of a broken wire, check with a standard mechanical gauge to be sure. Another thing to remember is a fresh engine will make noise. It usually takes between 1-5 minutes for everything to quiet down. This is true if everything is adjusted properly. Be sure to check your pushrods for pluged oil holes.

Good luck.

 

Using oil deflector clips for those rockers that need it will work fine. Exhaust? If you're breathing exhaust w/ the valve covers off then something is seriously wrong.

 

or just putting a long piece of cardboard in the head to catch the oil

and agreed on the exhaust

its personall preference but much easier running

 

Dont jump to conclusions. I have done it on numerous occasions both ways.

 

I will give you $20 if you post up a video of you sucessfully using the oil clips . I have also cut appart an old valve cover to make running adjustmants easier. If oil happens to get on the headder even a little, there will be smoke in your face, and hot oil on your hands. Crank case gasses are also present with the valve covers off. If the wind out side is blowing the wrong direction, or if your gerage is not well ventilated you will breathe exhaust gas. It's all about personal preferance. I like to do it my way, and I get it right 100% of the time. Just trying to help the original poster, there is more than one way to skin this cat.

 

This is by far the easiest way to set your rockers. But then again you have to find out why you don't have oil to your top end. You should have drenched your fender wells and exhaust manifold in oil with the amount of time you had the motor running with no valve covers in the video.

 

if you really have done it before than you know how easy it is to isolate, contrary to what you posted previously

are you serious

just stick a piece of cardboard in the head, and i have used the clips before without a problem, but i guess if you cant figure out how to use the clips it does not suprise me you cant adjust while running, but thats ok, to each there own

 

Yes, you're correct!

The engine-off method is a "much more" accurate method for hydraulics, than engine running (I've done both methods many times). And, it’s easy! Once you’ve rotated the lifter to the base lobe (see instructions for doing this), spin the push-rod and turn the poly-lock nut with your fingers until you feel the push-rod get tight (that is 0-Lash). Then add your preload ¼ or ½ turn.

WD

 

Thanks for the assumption, and for being a nice guy
You are a real asset to the community, and a productive participant in this thread.

 

Your right I am such a liar.

I prefer engine off to your engine running. Have done both get over it!

 

I wouldn't worry to much about the lack of oil out of the rockers if its your first start up. Everytime I've had mine apart and put it back together it takes several minutes to get oil to start adequately coming out of the rockers.

 

This wasn't the first startup. This was only the first startup with no valve covers. The ticking actually became progressively worse the more it ran. Some of the rockers were actually sitting loosely on the stud when I opened up the valve covers again. I'm going to put the oil sender unit before I start it again. Then I think I will adjust rockers using 526 SS 96's method. Mainly to avoid risking damage, but also just because I'm a rookie and don't have any experience doing this other than the way I did first (which is obviously not the best job).