Smog Crap
Smog Crap
I want to eliminate the smog stuff on my 96 camaro. Has a LT1 & manual tranny.
I took off the smog pump and plugged the pipes that come out of the exhaust manifolds. My question is this, do I need to unplug everything (electrical) that has to do with the emissions/smog in order for the computer not to jack the timing up. What about the 02 sensors, do I unplug them. If there are instructions on how to properly remove everything I would appreciate it.
I took off the smog pump and plugged the pipes that come out of the exhaust manifolds. My question is this, do I need to unplug everything (electrical) that has to do with the emissions/smog in order for the computer not to jack the timing up. What about the 02 sensors, do I unplug them. If there are instructions on how to properly remove everything I would appreciate it.
Defiitely DO NOT unplug the 02 sensors...
If you are talking about the rear 02 sensors...they need to be programmed out of your pcm if you delete them. The front 02 ones are necessary for the car to perform properly.
If you are talking about the rear 02 sensors...they need to be programmed out of your pcm if you delete them. The front 02 ones are necessary for the car to perform properly.
Last edited by rclearyiii; Jul 6, 2010 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Update
What makes you think the PCM will "jack the timing up" if you don't unplug the electrical components Whether you unplug them or not, the PCM will detect the lack of EGR flow, lack of AIR flow, lack of EVAP vacuum, etc, and set trouble codes. Many of those codes may cause the PCM to take actions to protect the engine. "Jasking the timing up" will not be one of them. Why would it add advance when you delete emissions equipment. You have to have all of these functions "programmed out" of the PCM to avoid issues.
First question - why do you want to remove it? AIR works for 2 minutes ate startup, does not affect performance. EGR works at low RPM, never at WOT, does not affect performance (can actually prevent detonation/knock retard when lugging engine at low RPM). EVAP keeps the fuel vapor from stinking up the back end of the car, and actually burns fuel you would have lost by venting - maybe a tiny gas milage improvement.
First question - why do you want to remove it? AIR works for 2 minutes ate startup, does not affect performance. EGR works at low RPM, never at WOT, does not affect performance (can actually prevent detonation/knock retard when lugging engine at low RPM). EVAP keeps the fuel vapor from stinking up the back end of the car, and actually burns fuel you would have lost by venting - maybe a tiny gas milage improvement.
What about it? That is the AIR system..... operates for a couple minutes at startup, blowing fresh air into the exhaust manifolds, to burn the excess HC's from the rich cold start A/F mixture. This helps the cat(s) heat up faster. They don't work untill they get hot.
Your 94 is different the the original poster's 96. You can defeat the system by pulling the harness connector off the EGR vacuum solenoid, and plugging a resistor in the harness connector. Or you could plug up the vacuum line. The OBD-I cars USUALLY do not set a code for lack of EGR flow. If it does, program the diagnostic out.
Question is, why would you want to leave the EGR system in place, but then prevent it from operating? It only operates under limited engine operating conditions, and when it does operate, it helps limit detonation. Does not reduce performance.
Question is, why would you want to leave the EGR system in place, but then prevent it from operating? It only operates under limited engine operating conditions, and when it does operate, it helps limit detonation. Does not reduce performance.
To **** off the "Green" people! LOL Actually the neighbor across the street told me that it eats HP. I guess he was wrong again, which don't surprise me, he told me to torque down my rocker arms to 50lbs.
When I built my stroker, all 800 nitroused HP, I kept all the emissions equipment intact and functioning. AIR, EGR, EVAP..... didn't lose a single HP. Only when it became a "track only" car, did any of those systems get removed. Less than 20# total weight reduction.
Thanks for the explanation
GM calls it the A.I.R pump. All the components of the AIR system are shown in Shoebox's diagram. What parts your car has depends on the year, and whether the AIR pump recall (95-97) work was done the vehicle:
http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpg
In addition to plugging the ports in the manifold or headers (if your headers are "emissions" headers), you have to block off the connection on the air inlet ducting where the AIR pump suction is connected.
http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpg
In addition to plugging the ports in the manifold or headers (if your headers are "emissions" headers), you have to block off the connection on the air inlet ducting where the AIR pump suction is connected.
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