LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Should i use a High volume oil pump or not?

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Old May 10, 2003 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
Shawn W's Avatar
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I hear something about a spring you can put in a stock volume pump and it gives it more pressure. It's kinda between a stock volume and a high volume. Anyone know anything about that?

thanks
Shawn
Old May 10, 2003 | 01:14 PM
  #17  
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I have only ever heard Rumors about the pan being sucked dry. I wrap my motor to 6500-6700rpms all the time with no problem. I have HV pump. My machinest would not even build my motor if i did not a buy a HV pump, and when i called the machinest and asked about this problem he said he would buy me a new motor if this happend.. I always overfill system by a quart anyway. Injuneer Fred has more info about this, he is who told me. I was worried the first couple times i hit but now i happy to have it there. The stock pump will be fine just upgrade the spring.
Old May 10, 2003 | 02:26 PM
  #18  
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Where can i get the spring and how hard is it to install in the pump?

thanks
Shawn
Old May 11, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by Shawn W
Where can i get the spring and how hard is it to install in the pump?
GM #3848911. Originally designed for the 1st generation sbc pump #3848907. Gotta take off the pump cover to drive out pin used to retain spring.

Why would anyone decide on a higher capacity pump if it is not necessary, and it's not. Appears even noted engine builders fall victum for the same more is better scenario. 'It won't hurt so I'll go with a little insurance'. Not true! Why would anyone want to complicate an already 'messy' upper engine oil return drainback problem. Knowledgeable engine builders have been wrestling/engineering oil drainback improvements for decades, and guys here want to make matters worse. (Actually there are two oil issues in these engines, KEEPING oil around the pump pickup and GETTING it back there) If people were aware what oil has to go thru, and what it looks like doing so to get back to the pan, I don't believe they would be so inclined to opt for the 'little insurance'. The problem? Seems that big spinning thing, ah crank, is in the way. That spinning thing doesn't like anything trying to slow down it's rotation. (spelled torque reduction) Why do you think builders looking for any torque gains, will opt for reduced oil supply to the rockers/lifters whenever possible? Whatever turns your crank guys. (pun intended)
Old May 12, 2003 | 08:22 AM
  #20  
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Something else to think about, if you install an external oil cooler or add other things which require engine oil (like a non self contained blower) you will need a hv oil pump. Think of it just like a nitrous system which taps into your stock fuel system whe you hit the button it reduces the available fuel to the carb/injectors etc that's why the come with an additional fuel pump. So if you're blown or have a aftermarket oil cooler I wouldn't run without hv pump.
Old May 12, 2003 | 08:43 AM
  #21  
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Fastfoward to the fact your car is modified, now you will have a even greater risk of sucking air than oil - and trust me, bearings prefer oil. I honestly wouldn't build a motor without a Canton or similar pan. Its the best insurance you can put on your motor. The factory pan has no baffles and the pickup is to far up in the pan for a performance motor IMO - just a bad design. With a canton or other aftermarket pan they should have baffles and traps usually with a lot better windage tray as well.
That would only apply if you are seriously road racing the car.. The stock LT1 pan will work just fine without worrying about sucking air.. I know guys running over 600 RWHP with stock oil pump and pan , and just use the larger diameter stock GM pickup. Canton or any other pan is a PITA and not needed unless you are road racing the car.
Old May 12, 2003 | 11:16 AM
  #22  
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Well i don't really plan on road racing.

Thanks
Shawn
Old Feb 23, 2004 | 07:58 PM
  #23  
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Holy crap I'm even more confused now after reading this thread.

I want to use my stock pan, going to make ~425 rwhp. Street car, some drag racing.

Give me a part #.
Old Feb 23, 2004 | 08:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by treyZ28
answer is still no shannon, but welcome back anyway
I was wondering where you went. Hadn't seen you post here in a while. Welcome back!

Jason
Old Apr 6, 2004 | 10:55 PM
  #25  
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good tech, please keep arguing, I'm in the air about this one now.
Old Apr 7, 2004 | 04:26 PM
  #26  
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Let me give you a data point..... the most powerful LT1 engine I have ever personally seen, including after teardown, was George Baxter's 1,125HP motor. It took his 3,900# 30th SS convertible to 9.04@155MPH. This was a 383, 4-bolt main LT1 block, with no block fill. 383 and a huge Vortech blowing about 20# of boost. He ran a blueprinted STOCK oil pump with welded pickup and the 80psi spring, and a STOCK oil pan. The engine was capable of 8,000RPM. When it was torn down (after he decided it wasn't powerful enough, and figured the LT1 block probably wasn't good at 1,300-1,500HP), there were no signs of oiling problems. A friend of ours bought George's block and is using it for an 1,100HP nitrous motor.

Never having had an original thought in my life, I copied his system for my 800HP solid roller nitrous LT1. It's still going strong. The guys at Second Street Speed who built both these engines wouldn't do it any other way.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 07:58 PM
  #27  
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Guess I'll just run a stock GM pump with the high pressure spring then.

Anyone got a part # handy? Shoebox's site is slacking

Does it come with the pickup and the mentioned high pressure spring?

Or do I have to buy those seperate?

Thanks!
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:18 PM
  #28  
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I use a stock pump and a stock pan.

Rich Krause
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #29  
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Actually, if you didn't want to go with the hi pressure LT1 gm pump, #12555884, an aftermarket, oem hi perf. replacement pump, from a source, such as Moroso (#22100 - #22112 - 5/8 pickup), for example, would be a suitable candidate, as well. I state this, cuz the quality of machining, (housing/gears) is (at least) as good as in a gm pump. # for the 70 psi spring, if using existing pump, is in a post, a few back.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally posted by Dave88LX
Guess I'll just run a stock GM pump with the high pressure spring then.

Anyone got a part # handy? Shoebox's site is slacking

Does it come with the pickup and the mentioned high pressure spring?

Or do I have to buy those seperate?

Thanks!
I have posted part numbers for this stuff about a zillion times (it seems ) on this site.

[edit] site parts list updated

and...

oil pump 3/4" inlet 12555283

oil pump screen 3/4" tube 12550042

white oil pump spring 3848911



Last edited by shoebox; Apr 11, 2004 at 09:07 PM.



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