Shakedown dyno runs w/ AI H/C (stock shortblock)
Shakedown dyno runs w/ AI H/C (stock shortblock)
A couple weeks ago we took the Camaro to a local dyno day. It put down some pretty good numbers considering the tune needs a little work.
Here is the rundown of the combo:
T56/10bolt/3.42's/17"Zo6s w/ 275/40/17s
Stock shorblock (back yard rebuild with new rings, bearings, ARP rod and head bolts)
AI 200CC Stock Lt1 heads
AI custom cam 23x/23x 56x/57x 108lsa
Supporting valvetrain
58MM BBK TB
CSR EWP
1 3/4 pacesetter LT's W/ ORY
Magnaflow cat back (no cut out)
39lb 03 Cobra injectors (w/ev6-ev1 adapters)
autolite 104's gapped at .035
brand new GM optispark
95 OBD PCM / 95 knock sensor
Mail order tune
K&N CAI (have SLP ls1 lid and box that will be modded to fit car soon)
I am very happy with what it put down considering the RICH tune, not having a cutout, and the half *** rebuild job. I origionaly had no intention on putting the H/C on the stock shortblock. The car was origionally a six banger.
and I swapped in a stock 97 LT1/m6 set up in it. The plan calls for a forged 383 with this H/C set up. I did not want to do a "build" and a swap at once and deal with chasing down gremlins.
When I started to get the 130K mile LT1 ready for the install, I attempted to turn it over with a breaker bar and it only turned about a 1/4 turn and locked up. I pulled the heads and found water in one of the cyls, along with some rust. The enging was pulled out of a wreck and had been sitting for about two years.
Ron from AI strongly recomended that I deck and torqueplate hone the block for the rebuild. BUT I was not planning on putting that much into the stock shortblock which was temporary and the 383 build was not going to be started for quite some time.
So I did the backyard dingleball hone, new rings, bearings, arp head and rod bolts (did not re size).
I was concerened about it having proper ring seal. But after a little break in it was performing better then I expected.
I got the car running with no issues. The only mods were full exhaust, CAI, and an EWP. It ran a 13.1 @ 107 and put down 292/321.
Bolt on dyno numbers
bolt on lt1 track times
I spoke with Ron about its performance and he agreed that it seemed to be running as it should and I would probably be OK with putting the H/C set up on the current motor.
Well here are the results with the H/C (so far):
I just recieved this graph today. I was waiting for it before I contacted the tuner about making some Changes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSCKqOY3m-0
With a correct A/F ratio and a cut out, does it look like 420-430 is doable?
Here is the rundown of the combo:
T56/10bolt/3.42's/17"Zo6s w/ 275/40/17s
Stock shorblock (back yard rebuild with new rings, bearings, ARP rod and head bolts)
AI 200CC Stock Lt1 heads
AI custom cam 23x/23x 56x/57x 108lsa
Supporting valvetrain
58MM BBK TB
CSR EWP
1 3/4 pacesetter LT's W/ ORY
Magnaflow cat back (no cut out)
39lb 03 Cobra injectors (w/ev6-ev1 adapters)
autolite 104's gapped at .035
brand new GM optispark
95 OBD PCM / 95 knock sensor
Mail order tune
K&N CAI (have SLP ls1 lid and box that will be modded to fit car soon)
I am very happy with what it put down considering the RICH tune, not having a cutout, and the half *** rebuild job. I origionaly had no intention on putting the H/C on the stock shortblock. The car was origionally a six banger.
and I swapped in a stock 97 LT1/m6 set up in it. The plan calls for a forged 383 with this H/C set up. I did not want to do a "build" and a swap at once and deal with chasing down gremlins.
When I started to get the 130K mile LT1 ready for the install, I attempted to turn it over with a breaker bar and it only turned about a 1/4 turn and locked up. I pulled the heads and found water in one of the cyls, along with some rust. The enging was pulled out of a wreck and had been sitting for about two years.
Ron from AI strongly recomended that I deck and torqueplate hone the block for the rebuild. BUT I was not planning on putting that much into the stock shortblock which was temporary and the 383 build was not going to be started for quite some time.
So I did the backyard dingleball hone, new rings, bearings, arp head and rod bolts (did not re size).
I was concerened about it having proper ring seal. But after a little break in it was performing better then I expected.
I got the car running with no issues. The only mods were full exhaust, CAI, and an EWP. It ran a 13.1 @ 107 and put down 292/321.
Bolt on dyno numbers
bolt on lt1 track times
I spoke with Ron about its performance and he agreed that it seemed to be running as it should and I would probably be OK with putting the H/C set up on the current motor.
Well here are the results with the H/C (so far):
I just recieved this graph today. I was waiting for it before I contacted the tuner about making some Changes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSCKqOY3m-0
With a correct A/F ratio and a cut out, does it look like 420-430 is doable?
Those are pretty good IMO for a backyard bottom end. Like you said, once you get your fuel dialed in you'll be close to your target.
When you saw the coolant in the cylinder, did you get the block magnafluxed? What caused the coolant to get into the cylinder?
When you saw the coolant in the cylinder, did you get the block magnafluxed? What caused the coolant to get into the cylinder?
It wasn't coolant. It was plain water.
SOMEHOW, it had to have gotten into the intake while the wrecked car was sitting. The engine did sit outside on a stand for a few days before I transported it to my house and put it in the garage. I had a tarp over it, but it is possible that some rain made it past. When I did remove the engine from the car, it had coolant in it (green). So I pretty much ruled out a Head gasket sealing problem. There also was no obvious leaks or damage to the head gaskets. My main concern was the ring seal issue. I did not want to sink anymore money then I alredy had into a "temporary" shortblock.
Being as it runs better then I thought it would, the stock shortblock will probably reside between the fenders for a while now.
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