LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Setting the Valves....Big Issue

Old Dec 3, 2003 | 10:55 PM
  #1  
MY91Y84's Avatar
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Setting the Valves....Big Issue

Today i "tired" to lash my valves and ran into some problems...i know the prcedure and i beleive i executed it correctly..
while the engine running loosen the adjusting nut (in my case an ARP poly lock) untill it taps then tighten till it stops then go another 1/4 turn..i did this to the entire driver side and then turned the motor off...i tired to move the rockers and sure as **** they were loose...i went and did the other side and wehn i was done they werent as bad.. WTF is going on...

BTW...Stock LT1 cam..LT4 heads have .525 max lift springs installed

Last edited by MY91Y84; Dec 3, 2003 at 10:57 PM.
Old Dec 3, 2003 | 11:47 PM
  #2  
kmook's Avatar
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This should be discussed in a generation spacific forum, moving to LT1 Tech. Thanks.
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 12:00 AM
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what do you mean loose? yes i can "wriggle" my rr when they arent compressing the valvespring....
i used the same method you mentioned, the motor idling..

jad
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 12:12 AM
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It's normal for the lifters to bleed down a little when the engine is shut off. Don't know why the other side seemed to be "better", unless you maybe tightened them a little more.
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 12:19 AM
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i cant do it that way(running) i always f 'em up. just get each lifter one on the base circle, go to zero then 1/4 turn..

done.
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 01:03 AM
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they are just bleeding off pressure causing the slack you are talking about.. this the #1 reason you should always set the valve lash with the motor running.
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 06:13 AM
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You are suppose to get a side to side motion on some and some will be tight. Now if you can move them up and down you need to tighten more. But if you tigthen Slowly til valve stops ticking then just 1/4 turn you should be fine. Just go over them one more time just to be safe if you want. It doesnt take a lot of time.
Old Dec 4, 2003 | 06:57 AM
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Make sure you are not pushing down too hard one the socket wrench when tightening also. Might seem like you are stopping the clack but really aren't. Just an idea.

Some on mine have a very small amount of play when car is off. But very small.
Old Dec 5, 2003 | 04:41 PM
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ok i got them lashed 1/4 turn after....now i have a book on rebuilding LT1/4 motors (it's called "How to rebuild Small-Block Chevy LT-1/LT-4 Engines by Mike Mavrigian) and in it it states "once freeplay lash is removed on exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 and intake valves 1,2,5,7 tighten each adjusting nut an additional 360 degress...Then rotate crank one full revolution untill hub arrow is once again at 12 o'clock..then adjust exhaust valves on 2,5,6,7 and intake valves 3,4,6,8"...

Now what seems strange to me is that hes lashing them with the motor off..and hes going 1 full turm instead the 1/4- 1/2..

when i built my motor i lashed the valves down to the dot like he did it..and whe i went to start it there was NO compression in ANY cylinder..i backed off them nuts and then it started compressiong..

my question is..what are the advantages and or disadvantages to lashing 1/4, 1-2, 3/4 and even 1 turn...

right now mine are lashed to 1/4 turn.. and they are kinda noisy still..no really clapping, more like a little tick x 16
Old Dec 5, 2003 | 05:09 PM
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Everyone has there own theory aout this. I don't think it is an exact science at all. Some people say you are crazy to go past 1/2 turn. I read in a TPIS tips and hints book that they are turning them to 3 turns past 0 lash. Mine are set at one turn past 0 lash and they are fine (I think). They are a little noisy but they are also the first SA RR's I have had. I don't know the real answer, and the more you look, you will just find more different opinions.

Dustin
Old Dec 5, 2003 | 08:59 PM
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You can do it like Jordan stated or,,

Start with any of them, I start at the back of the motor and work my way forward. One cyn at a time, just when the exhaust valve starts to open(moving down) tighten the intake to zero lash and then lock down the poly lock and give the nut a 1/4 turn. Now the other one, just as the intake valve starts to close(moving up) tighten the exhaust valve same way. I check mine once every two weeks or after a weekend of racing,but I run a Solid. You can buy a starter push button and hook it to your start, which is and easiest way, and run all the valves by your self. I recommend doing this, or you can get a friend to help you and have him turn the crank over from under the car. I don't recommend this, takes to damn long.

Neal
Old Dec 10, 2003 | 11:57 AM
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i have another problem guys....could u read my post "collasped lifters or timing waaaaaaaay off"......

im getting ready to get a flatbed and have it dropped off a cliff...no seriously theres a 218 ft drop off about 20 mins from me
Old Dec 10, 2003 | 01:41 PM
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What are you guys using for clips on the rockers to keep the oil from going all over the place??

I've got 151K on the old Z and something on the driver side is ticking (#3 I think).. It took about 30K miles to go from normal "age tick" to "bothering the F out of me"..

I want to adjust the valves, but dont know where to get the clips from..

Thanks
Old Dec 11, 2003 | 01:09 PM
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i dont know what clips your talking about....
at 1000 rpms' the oil pressure is only 6 psi so at idle oil isnt gonna go everywere...it actually only gets on your hands
Old Dec 11, 2003 | 01:26 PM
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Summit Racing sells the clips. I'm at work so I don't have the part number right now.

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