Setting the Valves....Big Issue
#1
Setting the Valves....Big Issue
Today i "tired" to lash my valves and ran into some problems...i know the prcedure and i beleive i executed it correctly..
while the engine running loosen the adjusting nut (in my case an ARP poly lock) untill it taps then tighten till it stops then go another 1/4 turn..i did this to the entire driver side and then turned the motor off...i tired to move the rockers and sure as **** they were loose...i went and did the other side and wehn i was done they werent as bad.. WTF is going on...
BTW...Stock LT1 cam..LT4 heads have .525 max lift springs installed
while the engine running loosen the adjusting nut (in my case an ARP poly lock) untill it taps then tighten till it stops then go another 1/4 turn..i did this to the entire driver side and then turned the motor off...i tired to move the rockers and sure as **** they were loose...i went and did the other side and wehn i was done they werent as bad.. WTF is going on...
BTW...Stock LT1 cam..LT4 heads have .525 max lift springs installed
Last edited by MY91Y84; 12-03-2003 at 10:57 PM.
#7
You are suppose to get a side to side motion on some and some will be tight. Now if you can move them up and down you need to tighten more. But if you tigthen Slowly til valve stops ticking then just 1/4 turn you should be fine. Just go over them one more time just to be safe if you want. It doesnt take a lot of time.
#8
Make sure you are not pushing down too hard one the socket wrench when tightening also. Might seem like you are stopping the clack but really aren't. Just an idea.
Some on mine have a very small amount of play when car is off. But very small.
Some on mine have a very small amount of play when car is off. But very small.
#9
ok i got them lashed 1/4 turn after....now i have a book on rebuilding LT1/4 motors (it's called "How to rebuild Small-Block Chevy LT-1/LT-4 Engines by Mike Mavrigian) and in it it states "once freeplay lash is removed on exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 and intake valves 1,2,5,7 tighten each adjusting nut an additional 360 degress...Then rotate crank one full revolution untill hub arrow is once again at 12 o'clock..then adjust exhaust valves on 2,5,6,7 and intake valves 3,4,6,8"...
Now what seems strange to me is that hes lashing them with the motor off..and hes going 1 full turm instead the 1/4- 1/2..
when i built my motor i lashed the valves down to the dot like he did it..and whe i went to start it there was NO compression in ANY cylinder..i backed off them nuts and then it started compressiong..
my question is..what are the advantages and or disadvantages to lashing 1/4, 1-2, 3/4 and even 1 turn...
right now mine are lashed to 1/4 turn.. and they are kinda noisy still..no really clapping, more like a little tick x 16
Now what seems strange to me is that hes lashing them with the motor off..and hes going 1 full turm instead the 1/4- 1/2..
when i built my motor i lashed the valves down to the dot like he did it..and whe i went to start it there was NO compression in ANY cylinder..i backed off them nuts and then it started compressiong..
my question is..what are the advantages and or disadvantages to lashing 1/4, 1-2, 3/4 and even 1 turn...
right now mine are lashed to 1/4 turn.. and they are kinda noisy still..no really clapping, more like a little tick x 16
#10
Everyone has there own theory aout this. I don't think it is an exact science at all. Some people say you are crazy to go past 1/2 turn. I read in a TPIS tips and hints book that they are turning them to 3 turns past 0 lash. Mine are set at one turn past 0 lash and they are fine (I think). They are a little noisy but they are also the first SA RR's I have had. I don't know the real answer, and the more you look, you will just find more different opinions.
Dustin
Dustin
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Albuquerque,NM--5,600 feet above you sea-level cats
Posts: 440
You can do it like Jordan stated or,,
Start with any of them, I start at the back of the motor and work my way forward. One cyn at a time, just when the exhaust valve starts to open(moving down) tighten the intake to zero lash and then lock down the poly lock and give the nut a 1/4 turn. Now the other one, just as the intake valve starts to close(moving up) tighten the exhaust valve same way. I check mine once every two weeks or after a weekend of racing,but I run a Solid. You can buy a starter push button and hook it to your start, which is and easiest way, and run all the valves by your self. I recommend doing this, or you can get a friend to help you and have him turn the crank over from under the car. I don't recommend this, takes to damn long.
Neal
Start with any of them, I start at the back of the motor and work my way forward. One cyn at a time, just when the exhaust valve starts to open(moving down) tighten the intake to zero lash and then lock down the poly lock and give the nut a 1/4 turn. Now the other one, just as the intake valve starts to close(moving up) tighten the exhaust valve same way. I check mine once every two weeks or after a weekend of racing,but I run a Solid. You can buy a starter push button and hook it to your start, which is and easiest way, and run all the valves by your self. I recommend doing this, or you can get a friend to help you and have him turn the crank over from under the car. I don't recommend this, takes to damn long.
Neal
#12
i have another problem guys....could u read my post "collasped lifters or timing waaaaaaaay off"......
im getting ready to get a flatbed and have it dropped off a cliff...no seriously theres a 218 ft drop off about 20 mins from me
im getting ready to get a flatbed and have it dropped off a cliff...no seriously theres a 218 ft drop off about 20 mins from me
#13
What are you guys using for clips on the rockers to keep the oil from going all over the place??
I've got 151K on the old Z and something on the driver side is ticking (#3 I think).. It took about 30K miles to go from normal "age tick" to "bothering the F out of me"..
I want to adjust the valves, but dont know where to get the clips from..
Thanks
I've got 151K on the old Z and something on the driver side is ticking (#3 I think).. It took about 30K miles to go from normal "age tick" to "bothering the F out of me"..
I want to adjust the valves, but dont know where to get the clips from..
Thanks