ses light codes?
ses light codes?
went to autozone and had them scan car. heres what i got.
po107 map circuit low input
po101 MAF or VAF range/performance
does anybody know what i need to fix this so i dont have to got to gm and get raped! thanks alot.
po107 map circuit low input
po101 MAF or VAF range/performance
does anybody know what i need to fix this so i dont have to got to gm and get raped! thanks alot.
Re: ses light codes?
With the key on, engine not running, remove the harness connector from the MAF sensor. Probe the pin on the harness connector for the pink wire. Should be +12V.
Re: ses light codes?
Originally Posted by Injuneer
With the key on, engine not running, remove the harness connector from the MAF sensor. Probe the pin on the harness connector for the pink wire. Should be +12V.
I have a hard time measuring voltage with just my eyes.
Re: ses light codes?
if it is not the pink wire , what would u say? i tried to put another maf on my car adn it wouldnt start! put mine back on and it took like 20 mintues for it to start back up again. could this be the throtle position sensor? and how do i find out exactly what these codes mean other then going to gm? thansk again, would really like to get this fixed, as i think this has something to do with my tranny going on me!
Re: ses light codes?
P0107 = Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit low voltage
The PCM expects the MAP voltage at idle to be around 1.0-1.5V at idle (= ~35kPa, or 10"Hg). It expects to see 4.0-4.5V at WOT (85-90kPa or 26"Hg). If the PCM only sees 14kPa at idle, it sets the code, because the engine isn't capable of developing that much (corresponding) vacuum. Also sets the code for low voltage at certain conditions over 2,100rpm. The problem could be intermittent. The connector on the MAP sensor is prone to drying out and crumbling, causing a bad connection. Put a scanner on it, and look at the MAP voltage at idle, and over a range of operating conditions to WOT. With the engine idling, make sure the MAP voltage is at leasdt 1.0V. If it isn't, shut the engine down, with the key off, remove the harness connector, jump pins B and C, and turn the key on. Scanner should indicate at least 4.0V. If it is, its probably a faulty connector or a bad MAP sensor. If it isn't over 4V, check the voltage from pin C to ground.... should be 5V. Then check pin A to insure it is a good ground. If either of these don't meet spec, the wiring is bad, or the PCM is not providing the 5V reference signal.
On the MAF sensor, did you actually check the pink wire for +12V? Did you check the black wire to insure it is a good "ground"? ITs either a MAF problem, or a wiring problem. Since a known "good" sensor didn't solve the problem - did you check the pins in the connector to make sure they are not bent or damaged? - it has to be the wiring. Why would you suspect the TPS sensor, when the codes indicate the MAP and MAF sensors?
The PCM expects the MAP voltage at idle to be around 1.0-1.5V at idle (= ~35kPa, or 10"Hg). It expects to see 4.0-4.5V at WOT (85-90kPa or 26"Hg). If the PCM only sees 14kPa at idle, it sets the code, because the engine isn't capable of developing that much (corresponding) vacuum. Also sets the code for low voltage at certain conditions over 2,100rpm. The problem could be intermittent. The connector on the MAP sensor is prone to drying out and crumbling, causing a bad connection. Put a scanner on it, and look at the MAP voltage at idle, and over a range of operating conditions to WOT. With the engine idling, make sure the MAP voltage is at leasdt 1.0V. If it isn't, shut the engine down, with the key off, remove the harness connector, jump pins B and C, and turn the key on. Scanner should indicate at least 4.0V. If it is, its probably a faulty connector or a bad MAP sensor. If it isn't over 4V, check the voltage from pin C to ground.... should be 5V. Then check pin A to insure it is a good ground. If either of these don't meet spec, the wiring is bad, or the PCM is not providing the 5V reference signal.
On the MAF sensor, did you actually check the pink wire for +12V? Did you check the black wire to insure it is a good "ground"? ITs either a MAF problem, or a wiring problem. Since a known "good" sensor didn't solve the problem - did you check the pins in the connector to make sure they are not bent or damaged? - it has to be the wiring. Why would you suspect the TPS sensor, when the codes indicate the MAP and MAF sensors?
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