Robert95z

Well thats my future plans for this car. Im about to buy me a daily driver and will put every dollar into this car. I want to run some mid 11's and some 10s on a 150 shot... All this on a stock bottom end... Is it possible?

Money isnt TOO big of an issue because I'll be saving for awhile before I even start doing anything, but it will take me awhile (patience is a virtue). Just trying to get a rough estimate on prices an which heads/cam will get me where I want to go. Will probably do a th400 conversion and of course a 12 bolt. I already have et streets and front runners so thats saved money.

But mainly im looking at, how high will my heads need to flow and how big of a cam will i need, and whats too big?

Should I pull my motor and replace vital bearings?

Looking to make this car mostly track... but i do have the hook up on inspection stickers so emissions isnt an issue.

Any feedback appreciated!

-Robert

RedWS6TA

get lloyd elliott to port your heads, and use a cam the like the gm 847 of get a custom grind,port the intake to match the heads, some bigger injectors, hydra-rev kit, a good tune and some good traction and it could happen. your goal just so happens to be the same as mine and i shoud have my project done in a few weeks. hopefully i will pull some good times.

Robert95z

Will porting stock heads will be sufficient? Especially for the GM847?

the GM847, are these the right specs: 232/242 .575 .595 w/ 1.6 and 112 LSA? Looks like a cam I would want

If anyone has the cam I would like some feedback and track/dyno #'s

Igniter

Yes, as long as they are ported professionally, the LT1 castings are very sufficient. RedWS6TA suggested have LE work your heads over... that is a very, very good idea. Could you go LT4? Sure, just keep in mind that a new intake manifold will need to be purchased as well.

As far as dyno #'s and track times with the GM847, search for a guy on this board named "atljar." He is pretty prominent here and it is well known he is running extremely fast... in the 11's, with the GM847 camshaft.

RedWS6TA

if you use bigger valves and good springs the stock heads should be fine. the heads lloyd just got done with for me flowed 271 on the intake and 195 on the exaust. and i am using 2.02 and 1.60 valves and comp 987 springs. trust me lloyd is the man when it comes to porting lt1 heads. and with very reasonable prices.

Robert95z

I just dont want to skimp on anything... will Ported LT4 heads flow better than ported LT1s? If i had to buy LT4s and then get them ported, wouldnt it be better to just go with some AFRs or something?

How much lift can a stock bottom end take? .600?

-Robert

12SCNDZ

Check out mods in sig, and on my website.

12.05 @ 112 MPH in 80% humidity. With better weather and next seasons 3.73's, I should be in the 11.8's.

Frank

Robert95z

Impressive, 12.0s with a cc305

How would the GM847 with ported stock heads be on the street? Not to daily drive but definitely a car to take out on a summer weekend day/night...

Would replacing the main bearings be a good idea on a stock lt1 bottom end with a big cam, ported heads and reving past the lt1s stock redline?

Thanks
Robert

RedWS6TA

changing the bearings is never a bad idea. as far as the stock heads on the street they would be fine. hell a set of ported heads that flow in the 260-270 range on the intake and 180-195 on the exaust are some damn good heads. yes ported lt4 or afr will be better but that is if you are willing to shell out the extra money. ported stock heads are IMO the best bang for the buck.

lt1camaroman93

you may want to stear away from the th400 and go with a the350 as i belive the th400 weighs more and take more power to turn.. Might want to dig into that a little more.. And i know a th350 can take the abbuse if properly built. are mid 8sec ls1 car runs a th350 and my friends high 9sec first gens runs a th350.

97WS6SCharged

You could probably get away with running a well built 4L60E. They have been known to survive well into the 10's if built right. As far as bottom end goes, you might want to reinforce that a bit more, like a decent forged crank, rods, and pistons. For the kind of power you'll need to get into the 10's, you'll be putting a lot of stress on the stock internals. Not much sense in making one pass and having to tear the motor down again.

Robert95z

I've never built a motor before so I dont know much about the bottom end of a motor... But you have a very good point.. hrmm

MauriSSio

tryin to hit 10s on a stock bottom end is doable,but i would DEFINATELY not recommend it.It dont make sense to spend all that money to hit 10's,then throw a connecting rod through the oil pan or worse yet through your hood (which means everything in its way would be utterly destroyed).10's IMO is big boy stuff,you really should know how everything works if u wanna be running at that level. Anything above 115MPH trap speed in a 3500lbs. car is FAST,to hit 10.s your gonna be gettin close to 125ish with good traction. I think a better goal would be to hit low 12's-mid11's.That would be more realistic goal for a stock bottom. Its not that the stok bottom cant take abuse,but the main bearings,Rod bolts,cam bearings,VALVESPRINGS,head gaskets gaskets,ans pistons,all that will be taking heavy abuse, and more often than not,one of these things will usually be what breaks your car down (even 12's can be abusing). Im a strong believer in stock GM cranks and stock powdered metal rods,but other than that I believe everything else will have to be changed out.im not sure what the total would be but im pretty sure its closer to 10G's or so. Also,how will you drive this beast down the street w/out gettin a ticket,how will u register or smog it?Ok,i might be exagerating but you gotta think of the what iffs too,like say for instance you DID get a hookup for smog,what if an ******* cop pulled you over cuz he suspected you of some lame *** **** (*** the police but we all know they do this) asks you to pop the hood,sees **** that definately dont look/sound stock and gives you a fix it ticket. Im from California and this **** is done more frequently than u might think,anyways im not sure what state your from,****,it might not even apply to you but anyways with that fix-it ticket,you gotta take the car to a STATE REFEREE. Now this guys the biggest **** of them all,cuz he looks your car up and down and inside and out and he knows where **** is supposed to be and how **** sounds,theres no hiding a lope from a large cam.Police catch you again on the street with the same car and they might impound it + fines.Anyways im not tryin to steer you clear I love the lope of a healthy V8 but all im sayin is you gotta be prepared for what your gettin yourself into,i have friends who learned the hard way and wish they hadnt HEAVILY modded their otherwise already fast *** car.Thats why i love old cars,popo cant mess with you so much.

***E THE SMOG *****.

97WS6SCharged

Building a good bottom end isn't cheap, but it's worth it's weight in gold if it never breaks. You also might want to look at adding a few cubic inches, a high quality forged 3.75 inch crank and 6 inch rods are about the same price as a high quality forged 3.48 inch crank and 5.7 inch rods.

An Eagle competition assembly for a 383 can be had for $1500-1700 bucks. Have the compression set to around 11.5:1. A set of billet splayed main caps cost around $250 (plus labor to install and align the block). Some decent rings and Cleavite 77 bearings and you have a bottom end that will run for a very long time, even on N2O.

Then have your stock heads ported and a cam matched to your combination and 11's or 10's on the gas should not be very hard. The cool thing is you can tell everyone it's just a hot 350 LT1.

Oh, don't forget, anything under 11.49 and you will need a cage or you will be thrown out of the track.

Dude, he's in Texas, everyone and his brother has a fast car in Texas.

Zepp

97WS6Scharged, Texas does have a lot of very fast, sweet rides