I used Freescan. Car was idling not moving.

RPM 700
IAC Position 29
MAP 0.388
o2 volts L 0.737
o2 volts R 0.755
Spark advance 18.0
knock count 1343
air flow 471
integrator L 123
integrator R 124
BLM contents 133
BLM cell# 16

How's all that look?

 

I dont know about the MAP, since i dont know what it is suppose to be, but it all looks ok. Was it in closed or open loop at the time?

 

RPM- self explanatory

IAC- right where it should be, idling with no A/C on around 30

MAP- I'm assuming this indicates 38.8kPa This varies depending on cam, altitude, etc. Looks acceptable to me.

O2 volts- means nadda. What matters here is that they constantly switch back and forth across 450mV If they aren't bouncing (once in closed loop), somethings wrong.

Knock Count- means nadda, what does matter is if it's moving, not what number it's at. It should jump up on startup/shutdown (noisy!) but during regular operation you don't want to see this move much.

Air Flow- This is usually in grams per second. In this case I think it's indicating 4.71 which is acceptable considering the MAP (running stock cam I'd assume)

The integrators are perfectly reasonable. "Perfect" would be 128 but it's better to be on the slighly richer side (<128) to avoid PE correction. A large difference between left and right would indicate a problem. Yours look good

The BLM cell, is just that. There are different "cells" for given conditions. This depends on RPM, MAP, CCP, and throttle position. The only thing you can use this for diagnostically is to determine if the integrators are messed up under certain conditions
(cells)

From what very little data you have listed nothing appears out of the norm. There's a lot more to look at, and it's best to view it all to diagnose a problem. What problems are you having?

 

Hey buttercup, you seem to know a thing or two about this so what do these readings tell you:

TPS position-0/volts.67
Air flow-7
IAC-13
MAP-.410/ volts 1.55
Barometer-1.033
Left O2 volts-fluctuated between .555 and .067
Right O2 volts-fluctuated between .759 and .053
Mass Air Temp-52 /volts 2.37
Spark Advance-17-21 fluctuated
Knock count-1994
Knock retard-0
Integrator L-127
Integrator r-124
BLM contents-141
BLM cell-16

Something is wrong with my IAC, air flow, blm contents. What do you think? The IAC is brand new. Would these readings signify a big vac leak? All readings at idle after fully warmed up.

Don't mean to steal the thread.

 

I am having this problem
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=224627

 

The integrators, like the O2 volts are simply "snapshots".... they will be switching back and forth, above and below 128, in response to the "jumping" O2 sensor values.

The one that caught my eye is the MAF = 471. That just happens to be the value yo uget when the MAF is disconnected. Or maybe its really 4.71 like Buttercup suggests. Might want to check it.

Not even sure what "BLM contents" mean.... there should be a separate BLM for each bank of the engine, and it will be different for each "cell".

A single frame from a simple scan at idle does not really tell you a whole lot.

 

TPS position-0/volts.67 - Normal. TPS at closed throttle needs to be between 0.20-0.90V, and 0.67V is the common factory value.

Air flow-7 - Normal. MAF at idle will read in the range of 6 - 9gps

IAC-13 - possibly a shade low. At idle you are normally looking for a value in the range of 20-30. Might indicate a small vacuum leak. Not sure you should be so concerned about this, but worth keeping an eye on.

MAP-.410/ volts 1.55 - Assuming you are reading the MAP sensor as 41kPa, Looks a shade high for a stock cam. But the volts corresponds to about 37kPA, so its not that bad.

Barometer-1.033 - Compare to your local weather value for that day... corresponds to about a 30"Hg barometer.

Left O2 volts-fluctuated between .555 and .067
Right O2 volts-fluctuated between .759 and .053

O2 values in closed loop will normally cover the range of less than 0.100V to more than 0.900V, with an average value of 0.450V. You can't see all the readings, because they are typically chaging about 9 times per second.

Mass Air Temp-52 /volts 2.37 - Manifold air temp, or inlet air temp. Was the outdoor air temp about 52degF?

Spark Advance-17-21 fluctuated - Normal at idle.

Knock count-1994 - See Buttercup's comments.... this is a number that just keeps building up as the PCM picks up signals from the KS.... the actual number doesn't indicate anything. Just if its growing at a high rate.

Knock retard-0 - Normal at idle

Integrator L-127
Integrator r-124

See my earlier comments. 9 times per second, the PCM reads the O2 sensor values, and adjusts the "integrator" to correct the A/F ratio. It intentionally over and under compensates. So these values are actually changing 9 times per second, faster than your eye can see. The important thing is that they have an average value of 128, which indicates the BLM's are stable.

BLM contents-141 - See earlier comment. For each "Cell" there is a "stored" long term fuel correction, also know as Block Learn Multiplier (BLM). There is one for each bank of the engine. Yo uneed to get both of them. This value indicates the PCM is having to add extra fuel, to compensate for a lean condition, either "real" or "false".

BLM cell-16 - Indicates the engine is idling.

You might want to read my onlinescanner guide.

 

OK... looking at your trouble codes and the scan, the MAF = 471 indicated your MAF was not functioning.

As Rob/Shoebox pointed out, you really need to keep all the information in a single thread, so people trying to answer your question know all the facts, and all the previous answers. Only getting a part of the story prevents you from getting a complete, correct answer, and wastes the time of the people who are trying to answer you, without having all the info.

 

Injuneer, thank you as always. I'm just getting into the whole scanning thing now. Freescan is really not too informative. I want to look for a better program that will tell me more. Thanks again.

 

I checked the MAF today and 1 of the prongs on the plug on the MAF itself was bent and not even hooked in. I bent it back and plugged it back in. Code is gone. Lets hope it stays gone. Would this be the problem w/the car nto starting sometimes or no?