LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Running "warm" after cam installl.....

Old Oct 2, 2008 | 10:07 PM
  #1  
ACE1252's Avatar
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From: Kernersville, NC
Question Running "warm" after cam installl.....

I've got my engine up and running. It is a CC503 w/1.6 promags and a PCMforless tune.

The car feels pretty good and idles well.

I have noticed a problem.

When crusing in 6th gear the car runs about 20* hotter than it used to.....207* vs. 190*. I have a new water pump, 180* thermostat, and am fairly certain that the cooling system is bled of air.

Has anyone run into this problem after a hotcam, CC503, or similar cam install?

Now, I am running the stock exhaust manifolds until my headers get here(backorded). Could a restrictive exhaust be causing the problem?

The way PCMforless programmed the computer, it does not get hot.....heck, I have not seen the temp go above 225*. So, there is no overheating problem. Just concerned about it running "warm" when cruising.

I can log(Autotap) the car if someone wants to see it...just be sure to tell me the parameters you need.

Last edited by ACE1252; Oct 2, 2008 at 10:12 PM.
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #2  
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Probly air in it still.

I would bleed it again.
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:50 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Yep. Bleed it again. There's no reason why it should run hotter unless there is still air in the system. You need to check the coolant level daily after driving. It may take a few days for it to finally settle.
The cooling system takes approximately 16 quarts. Do you remember how much coolant you drained from the block and how much you put in?
Old Oct 3, 2008 | 12:50 AM
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ACE1252's Avatar
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I drained(filled a 15 quart oil drain container) and refilled about that much.

The rad level has been constant over the past few days. I will look at trying to bleed it some more.....any tips on dislodging the trapped air? I've never had any trouble getting the air out in the past, but I've never completely drained the block either.
Old Oct 3, 2008 | 03:42 AM
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I would let the system pressurize and work on the lower bleeder screw- releasing the pressure, letting the system pressurize again if need be and repeat. Do the same for the top bleeder screw.
Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #6  
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This is an update of my problem. I think I found my culprit for the higher temps.

It was the new thermostat in my new water pump.

As I would cruise the temp would climb to the 215-220 range. I could get on it, run through the gears, and it would go down to around 195. I thought this was very strange......until I got to thinking about the "bypass" in the top of the water pump. The thermostat has to seal up that bypass hole to cool the engine correctly. I got to thinking what if that is not sealing right.....that would account for it cooling down when increasing engine RPM(water pressure from the upper hose slamming against the thermostat, sealing it better).

So I pulled the "new" one out and put my old one in....and sure enough it cools around 15-20 degrees better. It's still running around the 197 range(normal for my engine is 190), but I think that is from being too lean or timing issues with the tune.

Anyway, It's a heck of a lot better. Just thought I'd update this thing, because that was a good little problem.
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