Did you figure this thing out? mine seems to do fine sometimes now but worst when I fill up my tank.. I only put 93octane. PLEASE HELP ME.. I STILL HAVE THIS PROBLEM.

 

fozziez28 any news?

I know on my car something is getting heat-soak, since I can idle all day in my driveway, until i turn it off and put it back on ten mins later and then it surges. I am thinking ICM and coil at this point. I attempted the ICM mod but my coil is siezed to the head, the danm bolts wont come loose!

 

sonuds like an idle air control valve/motor to me, this site has good stuff and great customer service, www.carbsonly.com, they fixed my fuel injection problems, it was the same thing,

 

I didn't get a code. I also noticed it more shortley after a gas fill up??????????????????

 

I didnt get an ses light. I did get codes though. I got two missfires codes on cylinder 2 and 6. I have a horrible arcing problem on 6 that i can see. It was super hard to see. I have headers and so forth and when i took the trip my crank case vent tube was loose and sort of fell out throwing damn oil all over the place, including on that damn plug wire. I fixed the the crankcase deal by sealing it down, but its too late for the plug wire. I'm gonna replace the damn things this weekend and hopefully it will solve it. I have another oil leak i think from the intake that i have to track down. That is the verdict from the shop. I will update you guys after i get into this saturday. -Michael

 

dogboy, mine and yours are very similar... after the gas fill up... did you find anything yet or are you going to solve this one?

 

Licerio. Not solved yet. I do have an oil leak at the back & front of the intake which I will fix next week. I did notice a big drop in the problem after I removed and cleaned the T.B., IAC, & EGR. This cut back on the intensity of the problem. I think I'm running into a rich running mode from the way the car will backfire at times off idle and from the decrease in gas mileage. (15-16 mpg riding conservativley). When I remove the intake I will also clean the injectors. I also have a leak at the exhaust manifolds. New headers are coming next week so I will fix that also. I'll keep you posted. BTW I just turned 104 K but the problem started around the 90K mark.

 

thanks man, the only times i have this problem now is right after gas fill up and I use 93 too.. whats the deal.. but yeah.. please keep me posted.. thanks man

 

I think I solved the problem, I called the ex owner and ask him about it and he told me to use ISO (red bottle) its like moisture remover from gas when filling up. I used it and then it didnt work! but when I was using it the first couple of time, I fill my gas and drive to autozone and go get one and add to my tank.... He told me to put ISO right away after fill without driving it,,,and wala...it didnt happen again, the problem didnt come back until now (I waited after at least a couple fill of gas and observe before I tell you guys). I use 93 octane and the ISO red stuff (put it in when at the gas station). I did not clean my throttle body and my AIC. I hope this help. I think since the weather is cold and wet, moisture builds up on gas...I dont know...lol. Try it and let me know. thanks

 

I used 93 when i went to texas and it ran rougher, but thats to be expected with higher octane (more shake). I fixed my problem. It was an arcing plug wire. I replaced the wire and it runs smoothly now. Check your wires if u have jumping rpms. My car runs at 1k till it warms up then it runs at round 650rpms. I cleaned my iac and throttlebody which im sure helped some. I really need to take my intake off and clean it out with a pressure sprayer, cuz its full of junk. Mine was plug wires, so check that out. The outer shell of the wire cracked from heat (not direct contact) so spark was flying everywhere. hope that helps. -Michael

 

are you serIoUs? ISO is the stuff? My car doesnt even do that right now, licero, because it is so cold out here.

In the spring i am gonna have to try and use that stuff if the revving comes back, which i am pretty sure it will.

 

Well I thought I had it licked but its back today. I did the intake leak repair and all was well. Today I stopped by an auto store & bought some injector cleaner. I opened my gas cap & alot of pressure was relieved. I poured in the stp stuff and started the car. Within 30 seconds it started the surge. It will jump to 1100 rpm's at worst . I don't believe the additive would work that fast in a tank that is 10 gallons full. I drove to auto zone & picked up a fuel press gauge. I also filled up again and noticed no pressure release from the gas cap when opening this time? I would guess it takes some time to build up pressure?. I also noticed that when I disconnected the fuel line for the intake repair that there was little pressure in the lines. I removed the gas cap before the job started and when I depressed the shrader valve a trickle of gas came out & that was it. I'm just wondering if fuel pressure may be the culprit.

 

I noticed that on hot days or sitting in traffic my car does, and it did it once immediately after fill up. I always thought if the fuel pump was taking a poopey it would start hard?

All i know is that the longer my car runs, the less responsive/smooth it gets. Like the first 5 minutes is super great, then 20 mins into it is ok, a little more shakey, and after 30-hour long of running it is more shaky at idle and feels like it wants to cut out, although rpms stay about the same really, like 500-550. The gauge moves really fast back and forth after it has run a long time in i would guess 25 rpm incrments, from 5-550 rpms.

I am just getting mad at this point. THe dealer is in my future if this crap does come back this spring. when it warms up i will know.

 

As far as pulling codes on a 94 with a paper clip or (any type of wire)... Find the ALDL connection which is below the dash. It is a 16 pin connector. You short the two on the top row on the right side. They are right next to eachother. Turn the key on and you should hear the fans come on. Service engine light should start blinking. should alway flash a code 12 first (normal) Then if there are any other codes it will flash those. The computer will flash each code three times. Then when all codes have been flashed, it will start over at code 12 again.

If you start the car, the service engine light will start blinking all the time, and depending on the intervals between flashes will tell you if you are in open loop or closed loop. And if you are in Closed loop, then it's suppost to indicate rich or lean.

This is basically how it's explained in Helms manuals.

 

Okay I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and pulled 41lbs when the key was turned on without engine running. The Haynes manual calls for 41-47lbs as normal. Now I start engine and it only drops 1 lb to 40 lbs? The engine was almost cold so I may test it again tomm when warm. The manual states that it should drop 3 -10 lbs ?? so 31- 38 lbs would be normal. I have to go into the pressure regulator valve & see if that is the problem. I need a vacuum pump to test further which I don't have.. Any one have this problem?