i just installed pacesetter headers and an ac delco opti with msd cap and button. i put new borg warner o2 sensors, and made my own extensions. the extensions are soldered. when i installed the headers i done the egr delete. i used gasket paper and silicone and the old tube mounting end to seal the intake. and i pluged the egr vacuum tube off. and i unplugged the vac. solenoid. i have p0400 and p0403, thats it. i noticed that the rough idle/miss goes away when it goes into open loop. i have a random high rpm miss at high rpm that is there sometimes and not there others. my car idles at 620-650 and i thought maybe that i would need to bump that up with the mods in my sig. i changed the plugs again when this showed up, and they arent fuel fouled, but the car idles like it would if they were, but they are white...i.e. lean. its got a new 255 lph in it too and a new oe fuel pressure reg. any help is greatly appreciated. oh and ever since the install my mass air fuse keeps blowing, so i hard wired the 12v source straight to the relay box. i think this maybe could have been because i miss wired my o2 harnesses. which has been corrected. HELP!!!!

 

Sounds like your extensions have a problem. I had burned O2 wires on the right side where they go down the inner fender well toward the bottom. I thought the foil wrap was protection but after 2 years, they finally burned through. Mine would run fine in open loop, then the O2 showed it was running rich due to the wiring problem. The PCM would pull fuel until it bottomed out, the engine would run very rough. Then it would jump out to open loop for a moment, run good then start the whole process all over.

The entire time it was running so lean it would nearly crap out. Obviously like yours, the plugs were not fouled.

As long as the O2 wires are not damaged, use the plug in extensions from Caspers. Like this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

You should also try shorting the ground wire to the two signal wires going to the O2 to see which side is the problem. But you will need a scanner to do it. This should have the effect of swinging the signal from the O2 lean. If it doesn't change it, you found the side with the broken signal wires.

Just FYI. Never splice the wiring between the O2 and it's connector. The O2's we use breath O2 through the wiring and any splicing will disrupt that and throw off the O2 readings.

 

i just pulled them last night and re-checked them. i also had a scanner on it, and the computer is getting signal. but i think that maybe they are working right or something, becuase i did have some butt connectors on the extensions, but when i soldered them the problem did get a lil better

 

Now im getting p0100 MAF circuit malfunction. and im also getting p0103 MAF high Voltage input...any help would be appreciated!

 

Any time you have a sensor issue it is best to do the following instead of just replacing the sensor.

Check physical condition of the wires and connectors to the suspect device. In the case of the MAF, look at the conditon of the air intake plumbing from and including the filter all the way upto the TB. And check the obvious conditions of the MAF itself.

Check supply voltage and ground to the sensor.

Check signal from the sensor

Confirm the signal is getting to the PCM

Check to be sure the 20amp fuse #10 under hood is good and not corroded.

Measure the voltage from the pink to the black/white wire at 12V. With the MAF connector OFF the MAF turn the key on and confirm there is 5 Volts on the yellow wire when measured to the black/white wire.

No 12 volts, the pink wire or the ground has a problem. No 5 volts, the yellow wire has a problem from the PCM or the PCM has a problem.

If all that is OK check the output from the MAF. With a scanner you should show between 3 and 6 Gms/sec at idle.

With a DVM that reads Frequency in Hz, you should show 1200 to 3000 Hz at idle.

When you slap the throttle the frequency must go over 7000 Hz.

One last word regarding a 103 DTC The manual says look for water intrusion. The cooling effect of water on the grid wires to the MAF give it a false indication of excess airflow. In the case of the 100, any Un-metered air can cause it including vacuum leak, PCV system problem oil fill cap or dipstick loose.

good luck

 

My transmission had started to slip on me like two nights ago. then yesterday i was driving and BAM!!!!!!!!!! it went into reverse at 60mph!!!!! no one knows why this happened, we cannot figure it out. well luckily i feathered the brakes and kept it on the road untill i got down to about 20 mph and ended up in a ditch. didnt even tear the exhaust off! but it did mess up the rocker panels and i ended up with some scratches, a busted taillight lens, and a slightly bent rim. by the grace of god i did not wrap it around a tree. and i didnt blow the air bag because i took the fuse out when i bought the car. that would have been costly! well anyway i was reading about the infamous intake leak and i think that this may very well be my problem, has this been known to cause a rough idle, running a lil lean, and a p0100 code? i figured that i for sure could cause the code. and help would be appreciated and anyone selling some rocker panels reply or pm me..thanks!!! but on my vacuum guage/tester i have 20" Hg vacuum, so im guessing the erradic idle and idle miss isnt being caused by that...i already changed my plugs once and the electrode was white after 500 miles of driving. pulled one of the new ones, and its still white after 100 miles of driving....

 

ttt

 

9 times outa 10 its a wire melted

 

When you soldered the extensions, you indicate "the problem did get a lil better". Do you mean the idle is no longer as rough as it used to be?

You indicate "i noticed that the rough idle/miss goes away when it goes into open loop." You realize that the engine starts in open loop, and then goes into closed loop when the coolant reaches 120-140*F, the O2 sensors heat up enough to start working and the timer times out. Are you saying that rough idle/miss is not there on cold start (open loop), but shows up when it goes into closed loop?

You indicate you had a wiring problem that caused you to remove the MAF sensor from the stock fuse, and rewire it to the underhood fuse/relay box. Then you indicate you fixed the wiring problem. Have you returned the MAF power supply to the stock fuse? Have you checked the fuse? Have you checked the pink wire on the MAF connector for +12V, referenced to the ground wire in the connector - as Speedy suggested? Failure of the power supply would cause P0100. It would not cause P0103, which is telling you the signal frequency from the MAF sensor is higher than it is supposed to be, not "high voltage" as you indicate. Is it possible you have the hacked wiring for the MAF sensor running too close to a high voltage wire, like a plug wire or the coil wire?

In any case, the intake leak will not cause is to run lean, or bypass enough air to set the MAF codes. If there is a small vacuum leak, the PCM should be able to correct it using the long term fuel corrections.

You indicate you installed "an ac delco opti with msd cap and button." Was the AC Delco base a new unit of a used unit? When you installed the rotor (button??) did you insure the screws were in tight, and use thread locker? The MSD units appear to be prone to loose screws, much like some of the stock AC Delco rotors.

You indicate you sealed the EGR tube connection with silicone and paper gasket. Use of silicone in any locations where it could enter the intake air stream should be avoided. Silicone contaminates O2 sensors.

Many people seem to have the best results with OEM AC Delco O2 sensors. Not sure what results people have had with Borg Warner brand.

Now tell us more about your car:

-is it a 96 T/A, as indicated by your screen name? Many people have screen names that are not necessarily the car they actually own. Why not add this important info to your signature?

-what trans do you have? 620-650 rpm idle is stock programming for an A4 in neutral. Can't answer the question about idle speed, until we know this info. Again, why not put this info in your signature? There is nothing in your mods list to suggest that the engine should need any idle speed other than stock.

Finally.... to keep the thread on track, you might want to move requests for parts to repair the collision damage to another post, in the correct forum.

 

the opti was an ac distributor with the msd cap and rotor, and yes i used loctite. i wired the maf back to the factory box. however, i never thought about the plug wire...it was a lil close, so i will correct that. it is an A4 car. the silicone was to block off the tube port and the egr was unplugged from its vacuum line, and the vacuum solenoid has been unplugged. in respect to the open and closed loop running, it idles fine in open loop(cold start) and then when it goes into closed loop its idle slows down, and then start to get rough and randomly miss, but never throws a DTC. the car is running lean, the plugs are WHITE but the
a/f ratio guage never goes fully lean for some reason...but it is on the pcm side of the extensions. maybe i could move it down to the o2 sensor to rule out the extensions. i just ordered new extensions. from what i have read im guessing that the only thing that can affect a/f ratio drastically enough to keep plugs white, but not set a lean DTC is your o2 sensor. they also affect how your vehicle idles. i did notice a couple of times that when i drove a short distance on lunch and came back to the good ol' AZ and was backing into my parking spot it would want to stall and then go when i gave it some gas. Injuneer when you asked about the button...lol where im from we always called it the rotor button. people are always giving me a hard time over that... thanks for all the help but i hope from this injuneer i filled in the voids i left and you can maybe help my figure this out?

 

ttt

 

Obviously there are a number of different causes that would all give similar symptoms so don't take my word as gospel, but I noticed in one of your responses that it doesn't sound like you have had the almost inevitable intake oil leak corrected yet. Does your car show signs of an intake leak (oil residue down the back of the engine and coating your transmission cover)? I had almost identical symptoms to what you are describing(ran fine on start up then went all to hell once warmed up) on my 97 around 65k miles due to the oil leak and messed up plug wires as a result of oil eating away at the insulation on the outside of the wires. I had the leak fixed and replaced all of the wires, plugs, and put on a new AC Delco Opti and the car was perfect again. Hope this helps.

 

the extensions seem to be in great shape...but who knows...i fixed the sensor fuse that was blowing...i think it was doing that when i spliced with butt connectors. i have some new ones on the way...so when they get here ill let you know if it fixes my problem! i wired then maf straight to the fuse box, but the problem was that the o2 sensors are also on that same circuit, so i fixed that but its still doing it...so guess ill see when the extensions get here. ill keep you all posted. and thanks for all the help and advise

 

i got my extensions today, and with my luck the didnt help at all. 50 bucks wasted. on my a/f ratio guage the mixture will go so lean that the last red light will go dim. then it will go all the way rich. and like i said before the plug are white from running lean. can someone please help me? its got a random miss to it at idle that clears up when i give it some gas, its also got the same miss at wide open throttle. just a random miss here and there.... with my mods is it possible that my factory injectors are maxed out?

its got new msd wires, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new o2 sensors, new opti, and new spark plugs(tr55)

 

what is the mass air flow numbers at idle. ihave seen problems with overoiled knns causing the maf to be skewed.