Last night I was putting on my new roller rockers to go with my cam. They are CC Pro Magnum 1.6 non self aligning. I put the guideplates under the studs and then proceeded to put the rockers on. Whenever I lash one of them down it seems to loosen up the one next to it. What is causing this? Also some would lash down in about 1-2 turns and some would take more like 8-10 turns to lash them. Is this just because the different positions of the pushrods/valves? And one last thing, when they were supposedly lashed down tight (1/2 turn after I couldn't jiggle the pushrod) it would still be loose enough that I could move the rocker back and forth on the valve, is that normal? Sorry about the long and confusing post. Thanks for any help!

 

You have to rotate your engine as you do this so the valves are closed.
Also the lifters are hydralic and will keep loosening up, once you tighten them down correctly once don't mess with them anymore. My suggestion reset the lash on all of them.

 

Yes,you can only adjust them when the valves are closed.

 

ya it sounds like you were trying to adjust any cylinder. you need to check this out http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th...#adjust_valves it explains how to do it right. When i did mine they all turned about the same amount. As a matter of fact if you turn the nuts on by hand, right where they stop is just about where your zero lash is at. You should still be able to turn the pushrods even at zero, you just want some resistence and no up and down motion. After you adjust them the lifter bleed down so it seems like they are getting looser when they are not. I readjusted mine with the car running, this way you can go to anyone you want and it is super easy and accurate, just listen to the clank and tighten until its gone. If you mark the nut with a line you can see how much your turning them

 

Remember this silly saying and you will always know how to adjust the valves..

E.O.I.C

Eatting.Out.Is.Cool.

That means..

When the exhaust valve starts to open then you adjust the intake valve,When the Intake valve starts to close "it will open all the way then start closing" then you adjust the Exhaust valve on that cyliner..

You do the valves 1 cylinder at a time..Adjust one then the other before you move on to the next cylinder..

To adjust a Hyraulic lifter cam..
Take them to zero lash then go 3/4-1 full turn and lock the polylock down real well..

To adjust a Solid lifter cam..
You have to know the desired lash..then u put your feeler gauge between the rocker tip and the valve tip and adjust to that feeler gauge is snug pulling out..

Steve

 

OK..Now that a few have told you how to adjust them, I want to ask what guide plates you're using. GM Performance Parts are the only "Bolt-On" set available for the LT1. COMP plates won't work, as they're made for standard SBC...Which have the valves .050" closer than an LT1. Isky makes an adjustable set that'll work, but they have to be welded once they're aligned...PIA! If you're tryoing to use COMPs...check your roller aligniment on your valve tip (side to side).

Frank

 

I think when i do mine i will do it with the car running. It seems like it is a lot easier. But doesn't it make a mess doing it like that.

 

no it doesn't make a mess at all. But when your car starts out at 90 degrees it gets real hot real quick.

 

I'm using the Comp guide plates with my pro mags. I turn it to 6800 on a stock bottom end none the less No problems.

Do check to see if your center piece of the rocker arm is flat side up. If you spin the center you will see the difference. One side of the hole has a taper in it that the locking nut needs to tighten against. Also make sure your lock screws are all the way out as to not be contacting the stud giving you a false sense of 0 lashe. Your going to tight on the pro mags, you only want 1/4 turn past 0 lash.

I run the car, with gloves on, and tighten each one by hand until I feel 0 lash. Then, just turn 1/4 turn with the wrench and your done. It's simple once you do it a couple of times

-Shannon

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NOMAD
[B]I'm using the Comp guide plates with my pro mags. I turn it to 6800 on a stock bottom end none the less No problems.

OK, well maybe you've got that "One Off" set of LT1 heads that have normal SBC valve spacing. Or you've got a VERY unusual set of COMP guide plates.
Yea, I've heard of others using the COMP plates, but they're not right. I contacted COMP to see why my rockers wouldn't line up, and THEY informed me that they don't offer a set of plates for an LT1...Because of the valve spacing.
Doesn't anyone else pay attention to their rocker alignment?
Yes, the engine will run with the wrong plates, but I see you unevenly wearing out roller tips, or valve guides (from side loading the valve)
I'm not trying to start any arguements. The only thing I'm advising is, if you're using COMP plates, you should pull a cover and check them, before you have future problems.

Just out of curiousity, what cam are you using that still makes power to 6800 RPM's. I also checked your web page and found out your engine is out and apart right now???? I guess the rest of the combination didn't like the 6800? While it's apart, you might want to get the RIGHT guide plates...LOL

Frank

 

Sort of stealing his thread but i noticed that he is using non-self aligning rockers. What is the difference between the two. Which is better to use out of them also.

 

Non self aligning requires guide plates because the rocker can move off the valve tip pretty bad left to right at high rpm. When you get non self alignings you dont need guide plates because each rocker has 2 notches on the rocker tip that are a little bit bigger then the vavle tip, which allows for minimum slack.

 

Quote:

OK, well maybe you've got that "One Off" set of LT1 heads that have normal SBC valve spacing. Or you've got a VERY unusual set of COMP guide plates.
Yea, I've heard of others using the COMP plates, but they're not right. I contacted COMP to see why my rockers wouldn't line up, and THEY informed me that they don't offer a set of plates for an LT1...Because of the valve spacing.
Doesn't anyone else pay attention to their rocker alignment?
Yes, the engine will run with the wrong plates, but I see you unevenly wearing out roller tips, or valve guides (from side loading the valve)
I'm not trying to start any arguements. The only thing I'm advising is, if you're using COMP plates, you should pull a cover and check them, before you have future problems.

Just out of curiousity, what cam are you using that still makes power to 6800 RPM's. I also checked your web page and found out your engine is out and apart right now???? I guess the rest of the combination didn't like the 6800? While it's apart, you might want to get the RIGHT guide plates...LOL

Frank

Custom cam and the page hasn't been updated for over a year now smarty pants. The first combination didn't like the broken crank. I've been running this setup for almost 10,000 miles so far, but I do keep a check on the valve train (Which should be done since it is Non SA). No alignment problems whatsoever, sorry. When an engine is built by a competent engine builder and not some fly by night engine shop, I don't worry about 6800 on an all stock rebuild bottom end. Then again, maybe we just know how to build engines around here. BTW, I have the "right" guide plates thank you

Seems like your so sure after posting this only a month and a half ago.

-Shannon

BTW, I don't get into pissing matches. I know what works, believe what you want.

 

Sorry but didn't really understand that. I'm assumeing that you meant self alignings you don't need guide plates. So which ones are better?

 

I am quite sure he meant 'self aligning' in the 2nd sentence...
[When you get self alignings you dont need guide plates because each rocker has 2 notches on the rocker tip that are a little bit bigger then the vavle tip, which allows for minimum slack. ]