I wanted to wait and send you a run file for a better examination. I will do that asap, My new cable and software aren't compatible until I purchase the software and I was hoping not to have to do that just yet. My o2's are brand new GM units and just a small amount of Anti seize on the threads. I purchased them thinking they were the cause, Yeah I'm pretty familiar with how they operate and the range they are supposed to be in, I actually used your site for reference (great info there BTW). I will send you a better file when I get it out on the road. My alternator is charging high (3rd Napa unit) and I'm goint to replace it with a new GM one. Thanks for all your help in this I really do appreciate it.

 

I know exactly what Stage 8s are and know that if you retorque gaskets as they compress over the first week or two then standard bolts stay tight. The ONLY time the "locking" bolts "locking" features come into play is if the gaskets compress and allow the bolts to lose torque and then begin to back out. So all they do is either offer a false sense of security so people neglect to retorque as they should or they make retorquing a royal PITA.

Granted copper will need a lot less retorquing than other options but it is still prudent to retorque.

Trust me I have a solid understanding of things

 

I'm not sure I understand. Did you just put the locking header bolts on and didn't tighten them down after a few heat cycles?

This is the train of thought I've always had on header bolts. A few heat cycles, tighten them up, the gaskets compress, the bolts no longer back out, life is good.

 

I would argue with you now but the issue at hand isn't caused by a header leak, and since you are trying to find a reason to argue let me shut you down again - I did retorque the header bolts after 3 heat cycles- the same time I checked the locking nuts on the roller rockers and changed the oil. Oh yeah I torqued them a second time after the dyno tuning sesssion along with a new set of plugs that has lasted 3200 miles until this problem surfaced. Any more remarks / questions?

 

That sort of arrogant, know it all behavior isn't likely to gain you any help around here.

Since you seem to know everything, obviously you should know what's wrong with your setup... So why ask?

 

See now saying you had retorqued them rather than you trying to argue with me would have been far more productive.

A header leak was just an area I thought of that you had not yet commented on so I threw it out there. They can and do cause false O2 readings.


Retorque the intake??? Not normally necessary but sometimes with milled heads the intake wont seat right and will after some time begin to leak.

You said you tried 3 sets of plugs, what plugs have you tried??

 

I belive they are ngk tr55's but I'll let him tell you that. Simply as put the car will not idle. It doesnt like anything below 3k, but everything above that the car runs aswome. Below 3k it pops and misses and wants to cut off unless you give it some thottle. When scanned, the passenger side o2 seems a little lazy but at times both the o2's has been changed and swapped with new ones.Checked the wires harness that runs down the passenger side to make sure it wasnt burned and it wasnt.

 

And just to make sure I understand this, before I look at the full data log, the engine ran perfectly for 3,800 miles, and the "won't idle" problem only surfaced recently?

And there were no changes made immediately preceding the onset of the problem? Was the engine subjected to any high RPM operation immediately preceding the problem? Anything at all that could be connected to a very sudden and severe change in the way the engine is operating? Did the problem develop over any period of time, or is this a case of "it ran fine yesterday, but it won't idle today"?

 

It started running rough about 9mos ago but just a little sluggish at start up and after running it about 5 mins it seemed to clear up, and I just attributed it to the tune and was happy because the plugs would be fine after warming up a bit and I thought a plug replacement would fix this. But this problem of not idling properly ever happened until I left a fuel station (one I have used before with no issue) that's when I changed the first set of plugs and wires. The first set of plugs were autolite's 106 (they replaced a set of tr55s) and then I changed to the ngk tr55's which are in it right now and when those were installed it was the same as the day I had left the gas station and I have replaced the fuel and filter assuming maybe the gas was the cause, still no change. All the plugs looked the same just covered in gas. As far as high rpm I have regularly spun it up to 6k but the cam is made for 6300 and I don't bang the rev limiter or keep it up there for any extended period of time. My valve train consiste of Comp pro mag roller rockers 1.6, chrome moly push rods and comp r lifters, and of course the comp cam. I checked the valvetrain and no loose rockers or bent pushrods, all the valvesprings are intact and appear fine.

 

Let's all calm down on this thread... there is no reason to assume that one of the most knowledgeable people on this site doesn't know what a Stage 8 bolt is. It was an unnecessary comment.

 

Was the Data log that was sent to you suffcient Injeneer?. Did it shed any light on what could be wrong?

 

I haven't had a chance to look at it. I do a lot of this stuff "at work", and unfortunately, I've been busy with "work"... which seems to get in the way sometimes