LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

MAF is maxxd at 471.38

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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 09:12 PM
  #1  
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MAF is maxxd at 471.38

Ran my car really hard for the first time with the turbo on it. Now the MAF stays pegged at 471.38

It has a power and ground.

When I unplug it it stays maxed at 471. Should it go to zero when unpluged?

Any way to test the MAF?
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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Basically what you did, unplug it and see if it runs any different. You could buy an AZ maf to test it, and then return it and get a new GM one if in fact it is bad.
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Car runs the same b/c its still seeing that 471.38 afgs when its unplugged.

Should it read zero unplugged?
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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When the MAF has an open circuit, it will indicate a large # like you are seeing. It stays the same when you unplug it, because the circuit it open. I don't run an MAF sensor, and mine is always at 464 g/s.

When you unplug it, the engine will not use the data, but will default to speed density, and calculate the mass air flow based on engine RPM, volumetric efficiency, manifold absolute pressure and absolute inlet air temp. That may be a problem with a boosted engine, since the MAP sensor may be limited to 1 bar, depending on what one you are running.

Check the harness connector for damaged pins. Check the pink wire for +12V.
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
When the MAF has an open circuit, it will indicate a large # like you are seeing. It stays the same when you unplug it, because the circuit it open. I don't run an MAF sensor, and mine is always at 464 g/s.

When you unplug it, the engine will not use the data, but will default to speed density, and calculate the mass air flow based on engine RPM, volumetric efficiency, manifold absolute pressure and absolute inlet air temp. That may be a problem with a boosted engine, since the MAP sensor may be limited to 1 bar, depending on what one you are running.

Check the harness connector for damaged pins. Check the pink wire for +12V.
Pink wire has 12v and I also used the ground on the harness when I checked it so I guess that tells me its good. Connectors look ok.

All other parameters of the engine seem to be ok at idle looking at datamaster. I even reflashed the computer just to see if it would help.

Engine sensor fuse under the hood is also good.
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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Then it sounds like the MAF sensor may be deceased. Substitute one that you know is good.
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Then it sounds like the MAF sensor may be deceased. Substitute one that you know is good.
I can borrow a buddies, but im worried Im going to plug his in and kill that one too. Is that possible? He just bought his car and I would hate to ruin his MAF.
Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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I don't think a quick test run is gonna hurt anything.
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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So I put a known good sensor in it and its reading fine.

Now the question is what ruined the other one. Coincidence that it happened on a WOT run?

Maxing it out doesnt break it does it?
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Take a good look at the MAF (the bad one). Is it gunked up with a filmy deposit? I run the SLP CAI with K&Ns. I oil them lightly however I have seen people glob the oil on the filters. This gets sucked in and can coat the MAF. They cleaned it and the car ran well.

I tried it on mine after hearing the stories, and some brown did actually come off. I feel it idles better and is more responsive.

This is the stuff I used from Napa:
MAF Cleaner

Try cleaning it up and see if it helps. Don't use carb cleaner. Obviously, if you do see visible mechanical damage, then cleaning isn't going to help.

Last edited by Wild1; Mar 26, 2008 at 11:53 PM. Reason: link
Old Mar 27, 2008 | 07:44 AM
  #11  
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The MAF sensor includes some delicate electronic components. They have to measure power used to heat the wires to a particular temperature using a wheatstone bridge circuit, then translate that power number into a variable frequency signal for output. With a turbo, the sensor may be subjected to excessive operating temperatures. Do you have the MAF on the suction side or pressure side?

A constant reading of 471 is a failure, not something caused by a little bit of oil coating the wires.
Old Mar 27, 2008 | 08:29 AM
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The MAF is on the pressure side. I am running 5 psi so nothing crazy.

I have plans to go to a speed density tune when I get my shorblock together and run more boost, hopefully the second one lasts till then if its the boost that hurt the last one.
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