Hey guys,

Looks like I going to replace the fuel pump and see if that's my problem with my car not starting. The car has a 118,XXX miles on it and I already have one at the house. I going to replace it without dropping the tank by cutting a hole on top of the fuel tank. I have read some write ups on this and was wondering after you cut the hole to get to the pump. How do you get the pump out of the tank?? Aren't the lines steel? Thanks for the help guys!!

Brad

 

Here is a video of it being done:
http://www.stevenetworks.com/pics/trash/fuel_pump.mov

I hope this helps. I have a tutorial on how to replace the pump with the tank lowered. I have lots of pics. Even though you are not doing it that way the pics may be helpfull:
http://www.stevenetworks.com/f-body/

I did not make this movie, but it was posted along time ago. And because of such I will take this down for download at midnight tonight. I am merly doing this because emailing it is too much trouble(alot of free email hosts this kind of stuff is too big for). I hope Im not stepping on the owner of this videos toes.

 

Anyone have anymore info on actually getting the pump out using the "through the hatch" method?

I know alot of guys have done it.....I just can't see how to get those steel lines disconnected


Billy

 

ttt....Still would like to know how you get the lines off the pump assy. Going to be taking the pump out today!!


Brad

 

 

you dont disconnect any of the metal lines they will rotate up and towards the front of the car, they stay connected thru the whole process!! it takes a little fanagling but they do rotate

 

Thanks for the help!! Now I get to go home and have some fun!!


Brad

 

Good luck if you follow this advice. It has turned a simple job into a PITA . Your best bet is to make a cut following the lines a couple inches back to where the fittings are. You have to maneuver the assembly around quiet a bit to get it out of the tank. I could not get it with the lines hooked up. I got the lines disconected from the fittings but I cant get one of them hooked back up. I cant make another cut because of the fumes. I am getting ready to go f*ck with it some more

 

the steel lines coming out of the tank are only about 4-6 inches long they connect to flexible rubber/plastic lines.

I still fail to see how the hatch is easier than droping the tank but oh well. Good luck with the repair!

 

I chose to go through the hatch because my exhaust is welded up. The hatch would have been about a 30 minute job if I didnt follow the above advice.

 

In my 3rd Gen... I can have the tank dropped, pump swapped and back in in under 4 hrs. And that's with 3/4 tank of gasoline and working by-myself on jackstands (no lift). Personally, I'd rather drop the tank than hack up my IROC.

I got plenty of practice last week. GM Dealership gave me a pump for a TBI car. After I got it all installed, I only had 18 psi. So I got the pleasure of removing it all again and getting the correct pump. If I was you, I'd double, tripple quadripple check the part number on that fuel pump before you put it in. Even the Chevrolet Dealership screwed up on mine, with them having my VIN and RPO's.

 

Dan,

I did the change in about 1 1/2 hours!! I done this both ways and if you have the tools to cut the opening, its the best way I think.

DMcRacer,

Yes, you do have to disconnect the lines. Getting the lines back together was the hardest part. Have fun and you'll get it!!

Thanks for the help guys!! To bad it didn't fix my problem!!

Brad

 

Dan,

How do you get the lines off? All the pages with the pictures of cuting the hole are nice, but that's the easy part! I used the measurements off of this page http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html, and there is now way I'm going to get the pump out. I guess I'll have to wait till tomarrow when I can cut some more so I can diconnect the fuel lines. Have to let the fumes go away.

 

Why not use a tin snips to cut back the metal a bit more?