So I replaced my plug wires with the duralast 7mms from autozone

Car seemed to run fine for about the first 5 minutes, but then it started missing and stumbling throughout the whole rpm range as stated in another thread.

Feels like its missing a beat, and the shifter is shaking somewhat violently from the vibrations.

Whats the next thing to check?

 

Check the wires The name seems to ring a bell, I think people have compalined about duralast wires before...

 

i wouldn't waste time messing with the wires.

If the valve lash is properly adjusted, I would start testing the ignition system starting with the coil, icm, etc...

I'm fighting the same thing. My cars been running like crap, even stopped running on the freeway, SES light came on, I left it in gear, and it started to run again, crappy, but it got me home. The SES light ended up going away before I could get it scanned, but I'm pretty sure it's my opti.

start here. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

Assuming the plugs and wires are good, I wouldn't waste anymore time messing with those. I've done that, hasn't helped.

Check the coolant temp sensor on the water pump too, that was giving me some problems as well.

 

I think maybe I should take it to a mechanic.

I really want to sell the car, I'm so tired of it.

Whats wrong with the duralast wires?

 

Nothing, a wire is a wire. don't buy into the hype of overpriced wires. Don't get me wrong, I'm going to go with another wire later, but the duralasts are fine. My set of MSD's just got in the way too much and kept arcing. The car didn't have any advantage with the MSD wires... Smaller wires are easier to keep away from hot headers. Once I can go over the valve covers I'll get a better wire.

 

Thats what I was thinking

Seems like in the last thread people didn't think it was the opti either...so what else is there?

 

Use the how-to I posted above.

I'm having the same problem. I did the test and found I had no voltage getting to the ICM. Now I can go from there. You should do the same.

 

Well I'm terrible with electronics and dont have a meter thing to measure it

I can do grunt work with nuts and bolts...but I think I need to leave the electronics to someone who knows what all of it means.

 

If you make good money then take it somewhere. But if you have better things to do with $500 or so then I would invest in a meter and do the test. It literally takes 2 minutes, anybody can do it. Simply unplug the ICM, insert the red probe from the meter to terminal A, and ground the black one, then do the same with terminal D. The terminal letters are written on the connector.

Very simple. Lay the $$ down for a meter and test it dude. You can do it.

 

Good call. It really helps to learn by doing!

 

raroz28 thank you for posting that link thanks! thanks!