Well i know for a fact ill be replacing the KM in the ECU but my questions is do i really need to change the knock sensor also? I need the part number for the KM so i can order it tomorrow though.

One more thing. I know the KM is simple to put in but what about the knock sensor? I know its on the bottom of the block but how hard is it to switch out?

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm

here ya go and i dont think the knock sensor needs to be changed unless u know its malfunctioning

 

You can use the LT4 Knock module in either an OBDI or OBDII PCM but if you have an OBDI PCM, you'll want to stick with the OBDI 3.9k ohm knock sensor vs. the OBDII 100k ohm knock sensor. Just FYI since you didn't mention if you're running OBDI or OBDII

 

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Thats what it says when i open it up. So if the Knock sensor isnt malfunctioning it wont pull timing or anything of that nature? Thanks Guys.

 

16214681
go to gmpartsdirect.com and put in this #

sensor is prolly fine

run logs to see if ur getting knock

 

If you aren't having problems with knock retard (false) then there really is no sense in replacing the knock module or the knock sensor. The knock sensor only really needs to be replaced if it is "broke" and then the knock module some guys switch to the LT4 version if they are seeing false knock retard. But, if you aren't seeing knock retard, really no reason to change that out either.

 

im pretty sure i am. Everytime i mash the gas the truck will bog for about 10 seconds then it will be fine.

 

You'll save money in the long run if you get a scanner for your car and monitor some of the parameters. You are going to spend a lot of $$$ just by throwing parts at it because it is bogging... that could be a number of things and is likely not the knock sensor/module

 

I doubt very seriously that the LT4 KM is going to do anything for your bogging. You need some diagnostic data to troubleshoot your problem. Brent has some good advice.

 

definately worth it if you have headers.......it's a must buy. Does wonders if you are getting false knock on a loud high milage engine. Get it---it's like 30 bucks....i gain some e.t. back with it. It won't help with the bogging down though....that sounds like something else and more severe.

 

Several very knowledgable people have told you what to do.... scan the PCM for knock retard. If you don't have any, you don't need the LT4 KM. Even if you find knock retard, you need to determine whether it is "real" or "false".