plan on removing it pretty soon and wanted some info from people who have done it b4.

A guide (step by step) would be great and places to find block off plates, or anything i might need

Thanks

 

its real easy. 1st you take off the 3 bolts holding on the air pump. Then you plug up the hole that went from the air pump to intake, then plug up the hole in the manifold that went from the air pump and your done.

 

thank ya

after looking at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6...3/egrpipes.htm

i have a stupid question....are EGR and AIR directly related???

what losses/gains do i have in getting rid of both of these systems

also, i will be installing headers soon, and was wondering if i will need to ditch the AIR then anyways.

I know i sound un-knowledgable, and its bcuz i am,

Thanks in advance for all replies

 

The AIR and EGR are not interrelated. You will gain no hp with their removal. If you have E-check, deleting the EGR might affect that. Here's some reading on the subject.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/searc...der=descending

 

dude just DO IT... rip all the tree hugger crap off your car and don't stop till it's all GONE soooo much nicer under the hood once it's all gone

 

You might need 2 of the drain plugs in my sig for the manifolds...

 

thanks everyone, who makes the block off plates (if i need one??)

 

You can't go by the diagram in that writeup... its for a 1993 and the AIR and EGR are sort of combined on the 93. 94-97 is completely different, inclucing location of the AIR pump. And there is no connection whatsover between AIR and EGR on 94 and newer.

You need two 22mm oil drain plugs to plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds. (Dual cat cars need 18mm plugs). You need a 5/8" rubber vacuum cap to close off the air supply hose connection on the air intake duct.

There

 

the AIR air pipe needs to be cut in 2-3 places to remove it

i still have part of it hanging near the block on the pass side

need to make 1 more cut or something

anyone know if it's bolted to something else? it feels like it

 

my A.I.R. and EGR are removed, and DAMN it's alot better now. Also that big ugly AIR pump under the coil is removed too.

I can't STAND unnecessary bullshiat in my engine bay.

 

Just did the !AIR and !EGR myself. Engine compartment definately looks better, and I'm always glad to dump a few pounds of useless junk.

 

ok...so what will this do for my car..and i have an inspection commin gup this november or december...will it increase HP barely at all? will it make it run smoother? and can someone send me some photos on how to do it..i hav a 95 camaro Z a4..please let me know thanks!!

 

n e 1?

 

A.I.R.

Removing it will not do anything for HP.

AIR is only used for a couple minutes at startup, to heat up the cats. It NEVER operates at WOT, so it can not cost any power loss. Removing it gains you about a 7# weight reduction, and the above mentioned cleaner engine compartment. Some people have speculated that not having the AIR pump will shorten the life ot the cats, but I have never seen any evidence one way or the other.

Most rolling emissions/dyno test do NOT include a cold start in the crive cycle, so the loss of the AIR system will not affect emissions during the test. It will increase actual emissions at startup.

Removing AIR will not set a code in OBD-I as long as there is a "good" fuse in the circuit. Removing it in OBD-II will 99.9% of the time set a code.

EGR

Removing it will not do anything for HP.

EGR is only used at part load/moderate throttle conditions. NEVER at WOT, so it can not affect performance. It is used to lower combustion chamber temperatures under conditions like lugging the car up a hill, or in too high a gear. Reducing the combustion chamber temps reduces the formation of the pollutant "oxides of nitrogen" (NOx). It also reduces the tendancy toward detonation (knock) when lugging the engine.

Removing it saves little in the way of weight. It doesn't really "clutter" the engine compartment, because its hidden behind the intake. Some people speculate that it is the heat from the EGR riser tube that helps cause the intake manifold oil leak. If you have a "leaking" EGR valve, it can cause rough idle, surging at part loads, and cost lost HP at WOT, so if it is removed, there is no way you can have a leak.

Rolling emissions/dyno test include conditions in the drive cycle that requires the use of EGR, so if you remove it, it will increase NOx levels, and you may fail emissions.

Removing it may set a code in OBD-I, but it usually doesn't. Removing it will 99.9% of the time set a code in OBD-II.

 

also, EGR introduces exhaust gases back into your intake, which is extra carbon buildup i don't need