Is there a guide to how to remove it properly?

Can the SES light be eliminated for obd2 emmision test?

If so will it run OK untill I get tunning?

Where can I get tunning? for removing these and mail order performance etc.

btw this is a 96 lt1 a4 if that helps
.

 

i bought some block off plates on ebay and it runs fine without any tuning or ses lights, but then agian my is a 93 so we have different computers

 

Why do you want to remove them? They do not affect performance.

You will need to have both the EGR (OBD-II code for vacuum solenoid, code for no EGR flow) programmed out, as well as the AIR (code for no pump, code for no air flow to left bank, code for no air flow to right bank) programmed out of the PCM. Any mail order tuner that you see mentioned on these forums can do the job. Check the Supporting Vendors list for Trifecta.

Does your car have stock manifolds, or aftermarket headers (or will you be installing headers?)? That will determine exactly what you have to do to remove the systems.

 

I heard that it gives you 100hp. Nah just kidding
I plan on doing headers later and I just would prefer to go ahead and do away with them because I am doing a 3.8 to 5.7 swap and the less I have to put on the better. Also I hate looking at them. Also no use in carring around the extra weight. But mostlly for looks and not having to deal with them again. I just wanted to make sure it has no adverse effects and wanted a guide to make sure I did it correct and I can still pass OBD2 emmisions after I get tunning. I have removed them on my 98 LS1 car.

 

If they do a visual inspection, and know what they are looking at, it won't pass with the EGR and AIR connections plugged up, no AIR pump, no vacuum solenoid, etc.

I guess from your answer, you are saying that right now you will be running stock manifolds.

(This assumes you are using a 94-97 engine. A 93 engine will be different, since the 93 merges the AIR and EGR system plumbing, and bolts the AIR pump to the frame, not the front of the engine.)

EGR:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/egr.jpg

-remove the vacuum line from the driver's side of the intake manifold to the EGR vacuum solenoid on a bracket on the rear bolt of the intake manifold. Plug the vacuum nipple with a vacuum cap.

-unplug the EGR vacuum solenoid harness connector and remove the solenoid and the bracket.

-remove vacuum line from solenoid to EGR valve.

-remove EGR valve. Cover hole in manifold with a pre-fab plate from SJMManufacturing. Use a gasket and RTV.

-remove the corrugated EGR riser tube from the back of the intake manifold. Cover plate is optional, because you already sealed the EGR valve opening, but I'd put a pre-fab cover plate on there too, gasket, RTV.

-remove the other end of the riser tube from the back of the passenger side exhaust manifold. Another cover plate required. (Hence, you would buy the "3-plate" set).

-stare at SES light for missing system.

AIR:

http://shbox.com/ci/AIR.jpg

-remove the 5/8" air supply hose that runs from the main air intake ducting to the AIR pump suction side. Cap the nipple on the main air ducting with a 5/8" vacuum cap.

-remove the metal output tube from the AIR pump.

-unplug AIR pump, and unbolt the bracket that holds the pump to the front of the engine. I believe one of the "bolts" that hold it is actually a water pump stud. Exactly what will come off with the pump will depend on the exact year of the swap engine, and whether the owner had the 94-97 AIR sysem recall components installed.

http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpg

-there may be a vent solenoid, and a vacuum connection. If there is a vacuum connection, the vacuum source needs to be capped. I believe the wiring to the vent solenoid is attached to the AIR pump wiring. Again, depends on year of car.

-remove rubber elbows on AIR piping at check valves on each exhaust manifold.

-unscrew and remove check valves. Plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds. Single cat cars (94/95 will need M22 oil drain plugs. I believe the size for 95-97 dual cat cars is M18.)

-remove all the tubing/hoses from the AIR pump outlet to the check valves. Since you have the engine out of the car, its simply a matter of unbolting the parts. If the engine was in the car, the section that runs under the bottom of the timing cover typically needs to be cut so the tubing can be removed.

-stare at the SES light.

Running with an SES light due to the codes that set for EGR and AIR will not hurt anything. But it will prevent you from detecting new problems that might cause the SES light to turn on.

You may also experience detonation (knock) or knock retard when lugging the engine at low RPM, in the wrong gear. The EGR is used to cool down combustion chamber temperatures which elevate when you lug the engine at low RPM. That reduces the pollutant "oxides of nitrogen" (NOx), but as a side benefit, the lower temperatures also reduce the chance of knock.

Shoebox has loads of pictures of all these components. Note in particular the schematic for the EGR recall components.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

 

Thank you!

No visual inspection here, just plug in obd2, gas cap, and visual for cat.

I might go ahead and do headers and a tune before I put it in.