How difficult will it be? I think my timing is off.
Anything I need to know before I tear into it?

 

To properly remove the timing cover, you should lower the front of the pan. It does not have to come all the way off. IMO, I don't think it is that big of a deal. Others seem to think so , though.

You don't give any details of your problem or why you think your timing is off. It is not common for the LT1 to skip a tooth on it's own. I would be trying to be sure that's what it is before going to all that trouble.

 

Is there anyway to tell for sure if its on correctly or not before you tear it down? I just rebuilt the motor and it was running very badly. I changed plugs and wires and still the problem is there. Its the only thing I can think of.
I also read in a previous thread you mention to someone who was having drivablility issues like me that his may be off a tooth.
Here is what it looked like before I put the timing chain cover on, thinking about it, it does look like its off, one tooth.
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/5237/timing0uz.jpg
Let me know what you think... as for the pan, are the bolts going to be easy to get to? Should I leave a little bit of oil in it to weigh the pan down?

car symptoms: Barely any power, running extremely bad, misfire, backfire when I let off throttle when crusing, fuel in oil.

As for the fuel in the oil, I replaced the fuel rail, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. Perhaps its getting to the oil because its running so badly and not firing correctly..

 

Have you verified all of your grounds are hooked up? As for lowering the oil pan, its pretty easy, like Shoebox mentioned. You might have to remove your y-pipe to get the back bolts/studs on the oil pan. And with the y-pipe off, that ground on the block is pretty easy to get at for verification. I beleive the stud nuts are 1/2" and the bolts are either 3/8" or 7/16".

ZMAN

 

That picture is not taken straight on enough for me to judge. Oil in the pan or not-it won't matter. If you have the right tools, the bolts are not much of a problem.

 

Is this the ground on the passenger side in front of the starter?
I'll double check them all. Thanks

 

In that pic you showed it looks like you have it on there right.

 

Yep thats the one, its above the starter. There is also the ground/s that are near the motor mount on the passenger side.

ZMAN

 

Thanks ZMAN...
.. quick question- Why does the ground(s) effect drivability?
I mean the car feels like it has 25hp. Is it possible to be a loose ground?

 

IMO, it does look like it is one tooth off.

 

It's a little hard to tell ecause the picture is on an angle, but I'm reasonably sure youre off one tooth there...

 

Looks a little off to me to. I just got done taking off my oil pan and replacing the gasket. Its not too bad but it isnt the easiest. The back is a little difficult because of a cover thats on the tranny. Also was a pain to get the old gasket off from around the dipstick. I took my timing cover off and the gasket came off with it. I assume it tore itself away from the rest of the gasket on the oil pan. This is when i realized i had to drop the pan to put the new one on.

 

i can't believe you guys think its off a tooth. I'd almost bet money that thing is right. The crank looks a little farther off than the cam but the crank turns twice as fast as the cam so when you move them back to line them up they should hit at the same time.

 

im gonna have to say IMO it looks like the cam sprocket isnt quite at 6 o'clock and the crank sprocket isnt at 12. It looks like when the cam sprocket is really at 6 o'clock that the crank will have turned to be at like 1 o'clock
EDIT: but then again it does look like the dowel pin is at 3, so it might just be the angle of the picture thats makin it look like the sprockets are matched up right.

 

i think they are right, htats my two cents. cause if u rotate them back around i think they will line up. but for sure u need a better pic.