Going to pick up a cheap remote starter so that I can bump the engine over when I adjust the RRs.

Been awhile since I used a remote starter switch. Does anyone know the exact connections that I will have to make on the Lt1? I would like to just take it out of the package and hook it up so that anyone happening to be watching doesn't think I'm a "total" idiot.

Thx.

 

One side to the large wire on the starter or +12VDC and the other side to the small wire on the starter. You are simply providing +12 to the soleniod just as if it was coming from the ignition switch.

 

Are those wires inside the red plastic box on pass side, i.e., just hook one clamp to the batt + going into the box and the other to the wire going out the other side? BTW this is tech talk.

 

Connections are at the starter. One clipped to the small purple wire post and the other clipped to the post with the battery cable on it.

 

You can connect one side to the large wire in the red box but the large one going out the other side is the one that provides all the cranking voltage/current to the starter and not the one that engages the solenoid. I am not sure of a better location for the small solenoid wire on the starter...I don't know if there is an easier location but maybe someone else will chime in with a better answer. I have just always clipped one lead to the large battwery wire on the starter and the other to the small wire coming from the ignition switch. They are both right there with open lugs to clip on so that is how I have always done it.

 

Thank you all very much.

 

Yeah, you have to go to the starter to get access to the purple wire terminal anyway, so you might as well connect them both right there. There is not another easy access point for the purple wire connection, like there is for positive battery power.

 

I attached a permanent wire to the ignition switch post on the solenoid and ran it beside the battery to it's own remote post.

Easy clip point access.

Dean

 

I apologize for asking this, but I need to save all the time I can, since Saturday is honey-do day. So...which is the easiest way to hook my remote starter to the starter: can I reach it though the top of the engine bay; can it be reached under the car without jacking the thing up (97SS), or what?

Anything that saves me time is wonderful. since I am so damn slow to begin with...

thx

 

You are going to have to go underneath.I would just put a ratchet on the crank to turn it over.With the starter it is hard to get it to stop where you need it.

 

If I used a ratchet to turn the crank to line up the dots, I'd still have to jack the sucker up wouldn't I? It's been a long time since I installed my Underdrives and I can't remember how I got at the crank pulley

 

Ok,its been a while for me too. There are 3 bolts that hold it.15 mm maybe.Put the ratchet on one.You may need a pipe on the ratchet for leverage.The way I adjust rockers is one at a time.(never messed up)When you see the rocker start opening one valve,you adjust the other rocker for that cylinder.Turn it over til the one you just adjusted opens and do the other valve.Repeat on each cylinder.This takes a little longer,but they are done right.Good luck.Hope it makes sense.Also,you will have to switch the ratchet on the bolts as you turn in the clockwise direction.

 

Right Joe. I plan to use the EOIC method: when the exhaust valve begins to open, adjust the intake valve, and then when that intake valve opens all the way and is halfway closed adjust the exhaust valve.

Since, my exhaust valve RR is the one that came off the valve stem, I plan on just turning the crank until the intake valve opens fully and is halfway closed and install and adjust the exhaust valve RR on that cyl.

I may do all of them since I have that cover off, and do the other side later. Just need to get this sucker running to see if there is any other problem that might have caused that RR to roll off the valve stem other than maybe the lifter was collapsed with ( no driving for 6 months) or maybe the mechanic never adjusted them tightly enough to begin with.

The push rod seems to be fine. The RR has a couple of nicks on the self-adjusting washers that guide the roller. Received one new rocker and nut this morning (cost $30.00 for the part and $32.00 to FEDEX the sucker overnite.)
Oh well, when you need it NOW, you pay for it.

The real bummer here is that for a self-adjusting RR to come off the valve like that could have caused some REAL damage (hopefully I shut her down in time and everything will be ok once I install and adjust the new RR.)

No one has acknowledged having experiencing this particualar phenomenon, so I don't know what to think, but I hope my experience will put you all on notice that this can happen (at least with SA RRs.)