I have a big job ahead of me. In the next few weeks I have to change out a clutch and rear main seal on a '94 formula. Can anybody tell me if there is a walkthrough or anything for this job? I have a lot of time to do it, I just want to make sure I do it just right!

 

if i were u id pick up a haynes or chiltons book on the car, it will give you good step by step instructions on doing both. the rear main is not that hard to do, just be careful taking out and putting in the new seal in the aluminum housing, im not sure how much it would cost if you broke it, but it looks expencive. as far as the clutch, get new pressure plate to flywheel bolts, and if this is the first time the clutch has been replaced, and you have that crappy brass pilot bushing in the end of your crank, replace it with a new pilot bearing.

 

Though I don't have a manual, I have seen enough threads about pilot bearings coming apart not to ever want one. The bushing won't fail like that.

 

The job is pretty straight forward.

-Remove shifter
-Remove exhaust (if in the way)
-Remove driveshaft
-Remove cross-member
-Remove the 6 tranny bolts (holding it to the bellhousing)
You may need a long extension
-Support the transmisson and pull it away from the bellhousing
-Remove slave cylinder and spacer
-Remove 6 bolts holding the bellhousing to the block
You may need the long extension, again, along with a swivel
-Remove the pressure plate bolts
-Remove the flywheel
-Use a screwdriver and gently pry the rear main seal out
-Clean the area. Using a regular screwdriver, get the new seal started, making sure the inner flap is pushed out (toward the front of the car)
-Put everything back together

I think I got everything.

 

I think one the most difficult parts will be not damagin parts as Im disassembling the undercarriage. Do you guys know a list of ALL tools that will be involved from start to finish? Im going to be doing this in my garage, which isnt the largest, but I think it's efficient enough.

 

Basic hand tools: ie. 3/8" drive ratchet and a couple of sockets (basic sizes like a 15mm, 9/16, 5/8, etc), long extension, 3/8" drive swivel, etc. How are you going to damage parts? The only thing I'd think you could damage would be the transmission (if you drop it while you're pulling/installing it). I've done this job probably 5 times this year, in a dark, cold garage, car up on ramps and jack stands, laying on my back, and with basic hand tools. I think you'll be fine.

 

kickass! Do you haven any tips on what to when I lower the tranny? Should I rest it on something? I dont think I can put the front on ramps, because the car doesnt start...Is it feasible to put the whole things on jack stands?

 

Yeah, putting the whole thing on jack stands is fine. I do recommend putting a jack under the tranny when you take the cross-member bolts out. It will make it easier to get them out, and you'll be able to control the tranny 'drop'. Then, once the cross-member is off, remove the jack. Letting it hang is the only way you'll be able to see the bolts you have to remove on the top of the tranny.

 

cool. I might need everybodys help once I begin this project (still new to GM cars) but Im going to take it slow, and step by step I might even create my own walkthrough. That would be cool.

 

I did mine like this. It's an auto but the same principle.



Four jack stands for the car. Get 4-ton or higher so you can get the car into the air. I used two hydrolic jacks front and rear for backup safety. The scissor trans jack cost me $50 used. I do not know what they run new but it was worth every penny. You use a 1/2 rachet to lower and raise it.

Good luck
JD

 

The manual tranny is a little different because it's by no means flat on the bottom (doesn't have a pan). That is a neat jack. They also make extensions for regular hydraulic floor jacks that take the place of the 'cup'.