Well here is my future set up tell me what ya think.

Block:
0 decked
.030 over
Eagle light weight 4340 forged crank
Eagle light weight 5140 6'' rods
Weisco forged flat top 10.4:1 pistons

Heads:
Stock valves
Ported bowls and chambers
1.6 NSA rollers

Cam:
Comp 233/239 .569/.577 on a 112 lsa

Then the bolt ons listed in the signature. Any estimates?

 

I think if you can afford it you want some bigger and better heads.

 

Isnt the crank in your car forged. Save the cash there.

 

If you're staying with a 355 and no power adder, why the forged crank? I'd stick with the stocker and put that pile of cash towards the heads and custom cam.

 

I am not familiar with the details of the Eagle parts line. But "lightweight" parts are usually race only parts that will have limited durability in street use. You might want to check with Eagle before you order "lightweight" parts for your buildup.

Rich Krause

 

I'd definitely ditch the forged crank in lieu of a stock or cast. I just ordered a similar setup, and I'm looking to be well over 400 at the ground, and got a cast crank.

I haven't heard of anyone using 6" rods in a 355 yet. I'm no engine builder, but I'm not sure if that's going to work.

You're definitely going to want more in the heads. A full port job to say the least.

If you're staying N/A or planning spray, you could run a bit more compression also.

Looks like you've got a good foundation started though.

 

Nitrous is gonna be my next expense, prolly a 150-200 shot. I wanted to keep the compression down due to gas use i want to be able to live on 93 without any probs. Its gonna be mainly a street car with some trips to the track, but not a daily driver. The heads are a full port job jus with stock valves. I hope the light weight parts do last, ive always heard light weight stuff is the way to go. anywayz thanx for the comments, keep em comin.

 

if your gonna buy a forged crank why are you staying with the stock stroke?

 

I think the forged crank is a good idea. I have heard the same thing about lightweight cranks being mainly for race.
I would upgrade the rods to 4340 H beams. You can buy the crank and rods on Ebay much cheaper.
Rods 325-350
crank 450-500

If you are going all forged a 383 is something to consider but it is going to cost you more for clearancing and assembly. Just depends on your budget

 

I'd say you'll be trapping at around 113-116mph (NA) unless you have some more work done in the heads. At those trap speeds you probably be close to shifting into fifth gear if that cam is a XE grind. The XE grinds tend to peak real low. With nitrous you'll be deep into 5th gear with those 4.56 gears. I'd suggest some 3.73's so you can stay in fourth with the spray and save yourself a shift. Just MHO.

Mike

 

I didnt want big cubes, thats the reason i stayed with the 3.48 stroke. The rods I have ive heard are supposed to be better for nitrous cause the nitrous put such a shock on the motor the softer rods could take it a lil better. The gears befor i went down from 4.56's id go more like a 12 bolt and 4.88's or which ever is the next step.

 

Do you know where that cam makes peak power? Do you want to rev to 7000rpms? Just seems like your thinking is kind of backwards. Why would you go with a deeper gear with a power adder? You're going to be in 6th gear through the traps on a 200 shot and 4.88 gears unless that cam is good to 6800 and you're shifting at 7200. Maybe I'm missing something??

Mike

 

There are guys with Impalas running heads and cam with over 400hp at the crank and then hitting it with 175-280hp nitrous, all on a stock bottom end. I am not saying they aren't pushing the limits but it is working well for them. The stock motor is amazingly stout and can handle a lot of power, money is better put into heads than a complete new bottomend.

Good luck, that new motor is just overkill for what you are doing and overkill is better than not good enough, later when you want more power you can just spray a little more. The forged pistons are going to be the biggest help in surviving large nitrous shots, not that other pistons can't, just that the forged are more forgiving if there is a problem and it detonates. You could have gone with more compression too if you had wanted, between the accurate fuel and timing the LT1 gets and the reverse flow cooling, it can handle a lot on pump gas, but you don't NEED rediculous compression to make power.

 

no way would i go 4.88's... like said earlier your gonna want to go down on the gears so when you spray it you wont be going into to 5th and 6th. that cam isnt going to pull high enough to justify those gears...

 

I would ditch the lightweight Eagle crank. If you want a forged crank for relatively "small" power adder use a forged GM unit, they're about $500. I would switch the Eagle Rods for a set of Scat, just my personal preference. I would also bump the compression to 11-1 or 11.5-1 if your going to run 93 octane and use SRP pistons, I think they are lighter than Wiesco. I may be wrong on that though. Get more work done to the heads, it will pay off in the end. I would go with a GM 847 cam or even get a custom cut cam for your combo from Cam Motion. <- That is what I would do, but your combo would still run good. Good luck.