Agree.... adding the info about the oil spraying out the dipstick tube made me think you had found some new potentional cause of your problem, when in fact it appears that's just a new unrelated problem?

I didn't get a chance to look at your data log yesterday, because my wife had eye surgery. I'll take a look this afternoon.

 

understandable. im asking for help so whenever is fine by me! im greatful to get help at all, this board is the best. so thank you

i mentioned the other stuff in here thinkin maybe it could be related but when i think about it, open/closed loop issue is something seperate than my blowby. but the egr on the other hand, i didnt know about. so i thought id bring that up just incase it is a potential closed loop problem.

 

The O2 sensors aren't really "switching".... at best they are drifting up and down.... some of the time. Often, the PCM drops out of closed loop, the short terms go to 128 on both sides, and the O2 hardly move at all. Look at records 3572 to 4331.... definitely in open loop. The right O2 sensor is extremely lazy... never went under 297 in nearly 6000 records.

When it does stay in closed loop, the long terms nose dive. Cell 16 is 111/113. Cell 18, which is a weighted average of the other cells is 109/110. Evry cell that you operated in between 1 and 7 is below 120 on both side. Its pulling a lot of fuel out.

Its running rich, and the O2 sensors are lazy.

 

the right o2 is the wiring i had to fix on the computer side of the harness. could that possibly be bad? lazy o2's caused from the o2's themselves? or could it be my wiring?

 

Most likely, the sensor is old or contaminated. Contamination can be either internal, or external.

 

damn! i just bought these bastards! so you saying i should find 2 more o2's?

 

I'm telling you the O2 sensor isn't working the way its supposed to. Contamination is a common problem. Before buying new sensors, look at the old ones. Are they contaminated on the outside by oil drips or other fluids? Have you had a head gasket problem, possibly allowing contamination with silicone materials from non-extended life coolant? Did you ever spray rust penetrant on the O2 sensors? Have you used leaded fuel? Did you recently install cera-metallic coated headers? Did you use excessive amounts of anti-sieze on the sensors? Are you sure your harness extensions are high quality, including the wires for the O2 heaters. If the O2 heaters aren't getting hot enough, the sensors are not going to work correctly.

 

Headers were installed on this car before i got it. And it was ran with the old o2's that were on here. the main reasoning i changed was because the coating can hurt them. im only using 1 extension, i guess maybe its not high quality. they did not look contaminated at all. nothing is dripping on them or anything. no blown or headgasket problems im aware of. never used leaded fuel just 92 octane unleaded. ive never sprayed anything on the o2's either. i got them, and installed them. i used one extension on the driver side, and then the passenger side is rerouted and i didnt need an extension. though the passenger side is the wiring i had to fix.

i will wait for speedys response and maybe i can check my wiring that i did. and perhaps my extension on the driver side is a pos and maybe my wiring i did is a pos? i though i did a good job soldering everything but i guess i can make a mistake.

all i know is the new o2's were installed after the new headers had alteast 6 months + runtime on them. i got delphi sensors and they are the new looking style.. cylinder shape with holes..

 

The OBD-I PCM makes a check on the heater circuit, but its only for "continuity".... there could be a single strand of the wire actually continuous through the splice, and the PCM will read that as a complete circuit. But it won't flow the amps required to heat the sensors.

 

ok, so i think speedy will chime in on his method which will probably check that wire. hopefully i can narrow this down and figure out that it is just the o2's causing the problems. still doesnt steer away from the fact i will probably have to pull the motor. but atleast when i get it back together maybe i will have it running well that time around

 

It's more likely that it is not running rich but the PCM thinks it is cause of the O2 signal.

Mine had burned wires where they pass down the passenger inner fender under the foil wrapping. The O2 signal on that side would always indicate it running rich. Even though is wasn't. The PCM would then pull fuel until it couldn't pull any more and it ran like crap. When it bottomed out, it would jump to open loop, run good until it jumped back into closed loop. Start the whole cycle all over again.

Here's what I did to find it.

Disconnect the side with a problem and see if the voltage is now staying around 450mv. If the signal is always near 450, connected or not, you have a break in the wiring.

If the signal was staying high even after you disconnected the O2, there are wires touching each other. And if it stays low, there are wires shorted to ground.

The next thing you can do is short the signal wires to ground to see if the readings go low. If not, like mine did, you have a definite break in the wiring.

To force the signal low after disconnecting the O2s, simply put a jumper from the black wire to the tan wire and the purple wire. If the numbers stay near 450, you know you have a break in a wire.

So to clarify if the readings you see with the O2 connected are usually high. Then you disconnect them and they stay high, you have a broken connection. When you unplug them, the reading should go to near 450.

If you short them to ground by jumping them and the signal does not go low, you know for sure the connection is broken somewhere. Understand?

 

yup, sounds like i can accomplish this. i will just test both sides and perhaps the side i didnt fixed is also bad. i appreciate all the help. look forward to getting this car running well. got a good place to buy a leak down tester as well?

 

The O2 sensor voltage is not staying at/near 450MV's. Its moving around..... v-e-r-r-r-r-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y. In the data log the left sensor covered the range of 115 - 986 mV. The right sensor moved over the range of 297 - 892 mV.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900010/

So he proves the wiring is ok and comes to the conclusion that the O2s are bad.

By the way, you should also be sure the voltage is at the connectors for the heater circuits.

 

what voltage should i get so i can check that as well

thanks for the link as well. looks good cheaper than expected