oh, injuneer all my data was not under load. it was sitting in my garage idling. i can re-export the same one and also get one with the car driving and under load today

 

ok here is one with everything you asked for and it was during a drive

http://www.mediafire.com/?mvmjmdolii2

 

ok well, i have oil spray out of my dipstick tube.. the stick itself is broken on the top. the tube steams a bit when car is fully warm too.. is this normal? or does it sound like who built the motor rings bad? or is that much spray/steam come out of that tube if its not sealed?

 

Sounds like you may have a blowby problem. Pull the oil fill cap off and use your hand and ear to feel/listen for a "chuffing" out the fill tube. Pull the PCV vent line off the passenger side valve cover and look for excessive oil in the tube. Check under the throttle body cover plate for a puddle of oil.

I'll check the log tomorrow. I wanted the MPH because it appeared all you were doing was sitting still and revving the engine, which really doesn't produce useful data.

 

ok cool. that last post is from actual drive time. ill listen for blowby and look into it more.

 

i also just replaced my pcv it was clogged and milked up a little. i did pull the throttle body off and clean it up, and under the top plate it was kinda milky and oily. i figured it was all from my fresh air tube being loose. it is a really bad fit and was looking for a grommet to tighten it up, though condensation was getting in and causing it.. but blowby is a definite possibility the more and more i find with this car

 

A pressurized crankcase is most often from a defective PCV system. Oddly enough so are oil leaks. If you're having trouble finding the source, a crankcase manometer and a leak down tester go a long way.

 

ill look into both, are either of those one on the tool loaning programs at like autozone? maybe i should just look into purchasing anyway

 

when i pull the fresh air tube off my throttle body should i feel vacuum on the throttle body? maybe i can check for clogs in my pcv system first?

 

The connection for the PCV vent tube on the throttle body is in front of the throttle blades. You should not feel significant vacuum at that point.

You appear to think the moisture must be getting past a loose grommet on the tube and causing the milky oil. Are you aware that a major part of the exhaust gas that gets past the rings is water vapor. If you have a defective PCV valve, or excessive blowby, the end result is the wator vapor in the blowby condenses, and ends up in the oil, where it starts to form acids. You will also get those milky oil buildups if you don't run your engine long enough in really cold weather to heat the oil up fully.

 

i was unaware. thank you. i know a little bit but not a lot. learn something everyday, and with this thread i learn numerous things. everyone here is always a great help and i appreciate it.

one thing that confuses me is that i didnt have the oil or steam coming from the tube before i had it all apart fixing my wire harness, and also replaced my pcv valve cause my old one was not rattling. now i am getting the problem. so i am hoping that it is just my pcv problem because i didnt have this problem before.

now that i think about it maybe i did something wrong.. on my throttle body i got a new plate, and when i took the old plate off the rubber so no way gonna be used again and parts store dont have this gasket in stock.. i used silicon to seal it up.. maybe that is my problem? could too much silicon clogged the hole the pulls the ventilation through?

 

pulled my driver side valve cover off.. the top of the cover is lined with milky oil/water. about 1/8" to a 1/4" thick

 

well just noticed my egr valve is still on the back of my intake. he said it was removed guess i should check things. so could the egr valve on there be a problem when its tuned out.. and i gonna dig deeper to see if its even hooked up etc.

 

It is getting away from the original problem. I noticed in an earlier post that you said it bounces in and out of closed loop before one of the O2s settles around 800? If I understand this correctly, there are 2 things wrong with this. It should not bounce in and out of closed loop. At least not at idle. At WOT yes, but not otherwise. The other problem is, the readings should vary fast as Fred mentioned from near 100 to near 900 and back and forth.

I for one don't want to look at a bunch of useless data. Does the O2 readings vary as Fred asked several posts ago?

I mentioned that I have a very simple method of finding wiring issues for the O2's if they are not working properly. Let's get back to the problem at hand.

 

ya sorry i dont mean to stray out, i should open new posts for separate problems.

in idle when it switches over to closed loop the mv's do bounce around, they will go down and up all the way up in the 900's but also after it hits closed loop it has jumped back over to open loop, for up to 10 seconds maybe and jump back to closed. it does not do it often, but when it is in closed loop the mV's are bouncing around.