If you do the math, using the concept of velocity head, you can show that the MAXIMUM you could gain from the "ram air" effect at 100mph would be about 1% of the engine's HP. On a stocker, that would be 3HP.... on a 500HP setup, that's 5HP. Not much.

And, the gain is proportional to the velocity squared. At 50mph, you gain 0.25% max, at 150mph you could theoretically gain 2.25%. If you were making 500hp on motor, that's a potential 11HP gain. But that is all theoretical. If the design of the scoop's inlet isn't "perfect", you gain less. If the location of the scoop is deep in the boundary layer of slow moving air that hugs the surface of the hood, you gain less. If the duct between the scoop and the throttle body has bends and baffles, you gain less.

The WS6 Ram Air design has a decent hood location, with respect to boundary layer, probably is taking in air from the coolest location, and does not have a lot of bends in it, once you remove the baffles. The shape and "efficiency" of the openings is far from perfect.

 

Well, I havent walked across the stage yet but...

The only way I could see that not being debatable is proving that the ram air scoop is a low pressure area that actually pulls in air. For all I know, the shape of the hood could cause a boundary layer to occur over the hood scoop and the majority of the airflow go right over it. I'd like to see if anyone has done any research on the whole debate.

Then you have to wonder, even if air was directly "rammed" into the intake, based on the engines volumetic efficiency, how much of this air would actually be used? Is the airflow into the intake through the F-body set up turbulent or laminar? I would think ideally you'd want to design the intake to take in a laminar flow proportional to maximum flowrate of air that the engine will be consuming at WOT.

Theres tons of factors... and I really find it hard to believe that GM would spend much time and money engineering the best intake set up possible on a car thats base price was under $20,000. The only obvious advantages to me that I dont need numbers to be convinced of is the strait shot to the TB vs. the curved geometry of a CAI set up. I believe honestly it was more of a marketing thing than anything else.

It would make for an interesting project... for someone who had the time and money to do it.

 

I don't think the argument is that the ram-air effect even gets you anything anymore, but that it is a very effective Cold air setup, on par with the aftermarket CAI designs from K&N,ling,etc...

 

My main point with this is not that RA exists or not, I have the same thoughts as Injuneer and the whole RA effect.

My point has to do with is the CAI better or the straight shot of a de-baffled WS6 RA setup looked at as just a CAI, not for the RA effects.

No one has ever been able to explain to me why a 3' long piece of tubing with multiple cross-sectional-area changes and multiple 90* bends is better than or even equal to the straight WS6 RA intake? Yet alone a modded one like Injuneer's or mine (I can see my TB blades through my intakes with the airfilter out). That's the question I pose?

 

Ah, my bad, I misinterpreted. In that case I agree with you 100 percent.

 

I find it interesting that EVERYTIME this is brought up it goes right to the "myth" of Ram-air and the discussion then flows onto whether or not it exists and adds any gains... but when the arguement about RA is removed, no one has any comments on which is a better air intake.......

hmmm....

 

How about I just end this here, if you have the money for RA then it cant hurt! I think that sums it all up.

 

well.. this seemed to have caused a lot of mixed opinions. As for the suncoast box rep, he told me i could put it on the dyno and return it if it didnt make at least extra 20 hp. As for hydro-locking up the motor, some one told me they got a car wash and the water was sprayed into the nostrils, wouldn't that be dangerous???? Either way im gunna buy a non functional hood and cut out the scoops if i find its worth it. I'm getting glasstek's firehawk replica from WS6, has any one heard ne thing about those hoods?

 

I know the factory hoods have rain baffles that prevent the water from reaching the airfilter; thus making the car-wash a non-issue.

As for if it doesn't have the baffles, I can't tell you about the car wash (I hand wash mine everytime), but like I stated before, I've driven in the rain with no adverse effects, but I don't recommend it if there are no baffles.