Question about turning flywheel.
When I had mine cut, they took 15 thousandths off and then used shims of the same size between the flywheel and the crank.
If you don't use shims some people have had problems with the clutch not disengaging fully.
If you don't use shims some people have had problems with the clutch not disengaging fully.
No. When the flywheel is turned it is the working surface that is turned down, not the entire wheel. It is basicly the same as having brake rotors turned. As long as it is still inside the tollerances turn it and put it back on.
ive never heard of shiming behind the flywheel, i have had to shim the pp where it bolted up to flywheel. becuase the clutch i had made was .025 thicker but i had the fly wheel milled twice and have never shimed it. and have never had problems.
i dont see what it would hurt to shim. so i guess either will work.
i dont see what it would hurt to shim. so i guess either will work.
Originally posted by All_Z_Way
I have never heard of shimming a flywheel either.
I had mine turned and it was just barely within tolerances... I should have replaced it since I have problems with the clutch every since.
I have never heard of shimming a flywheel either.
I had mine turned and it was just barely within tolerances... I should have replaced it since I have problems with the clutch every since.
i bought a used SLP billet flywheel from someone who used it, resurfaced it .020 but then did not reinstall it.
it's now in my car and there are no problems.
runs great with a new LT4 pp/disk.
tech at SLP said they did not recommend anyone resurfacing their flywheels, they should be replaced (??)
but no problems here. and i drive it pretty hard.
it's now in my car and there are no problems.
runs great with a new LT4 pp/disk.
tech at SLP said they did not recommend anyone resurfacing their flywheels, they should be replaced (??)
but no problems here. and i drive it pretty hard.
Maybe you don't need to shim it but when I researched doing my clutch earlier this year here I was told it was important to shim behind it. I thought it had to be done to make up the difference in travel with the release fork so the clutch would disengage fully. It sounds like it's not necessary though.
Did you find out if you had to shim your flywheel at all? I think this may be the problem with my car. It won't fully disengage and I even dropped $140 on new hydraulics with no change. I had the flywheel resurfaced twice, but I don't know how much, nor do I know how much you can go, as there are no specs in the factory service manual. Anyone have any tolerances or whatnot? Starting to hate the crap with LT1s. Why in gods name would you not be able to turn a flywheel? It worked fine the first time, but it sucks big time now. Flywheels for these cars are insanely priced too.
My stock flywheel has be cut 2 times now, and it still works good. If I manage to burn this clutch out and I don't buy a street twin I will cut it a 3rd time. Go ahead and get it cut
unless you feel its worth the $$$ to buy another flywheel.
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