hey guys i have been having issues with my air fuel guage it goes to red or off when at idle after it is warm and also the guage will go from running stoch to bouncing erratically and can feel power lose the will come back. i hope this makes since. it seems to have magnified after cc306 install and madz tune. I know the tune is good due to it was doing it before it just seems to have gotten magnified. i was thinking the tps is going out, and also if i let completely out of the trottle it dont show and ratio untill i hit the gas again. but anyways what you all think, and here is some pics of the engine after the cam install and the paint jib i did on a few things

 

anyone??????

 

A bit hard to follow your question.... might explain why no responses.

First, what "a/f" gauge are you running - a true wide-band (if so, which one?), or one that tacks on to your stock, narrow-band O2 sensors?

First concern is its "bouncing erratically". That's normal in closed loop, part load/part throttle. Only time the O2 sensors will put out a fairly constant signal is in open loop (cold start) or in power enrichment (PE) mode (~WOT). When are yours "bouncing"?

Appears you are also concerned because the sensor "don't show any ratio" when you decel. Again, that's normal. When you close the throttle the PCM cuts off the fuel, keeping the injectors at "0" pulse width until the engine RPM drops to about 1,300rpm. You can actually feel the fuel cut back on when the RPM drops low enough.

Might wnat to clarify the above, or any other concerns that are contained in your original post.

 

the no indication i understand, but the stumble when it is between 14-1500 is what i am worried about, this is after it is warm and just putting along. and yeah i am usinf a autometer gauge hooket ot the factory o2.

 

Its not clear to me what you mean when you say it "goes red or off".... since not many of us have the AutoMeter A/F gauge, I don't know what "red" and "off" means. Your O2 sensors will be swinging back and forth in closed loop ("putting along"????) - they will cover the full range of the meter, all the way from the lowest "lean" light to the highest "rich" light. They should never stand still, once its in closed loop, and at part throttle. But you appear to indicate that the engine loses power when its swinging back and forth over the full range.

That isn't something that would track back to a faulty TPS sensor. But you can check the sensor with a volt meter. Should read +5V from the gray wire to the black wire all the time, and at closed throttle in the range of 0.20-0.90V between the blue and the black wires, and increase smoothly to fully open, when the voltage should be about 4.0V above the closed throttle voltage.


If it seems to run OK in open loop (cold start), then starts to stumble when it goes in to closed loop, in the 1,400-1,500RPM range, look for things that change when it goes into closed loop, like the O2 sensors, or things that can break down when they heat up, like the IC module, coil, Optispark optical sensor, wire insulation, etc.

 

well i mean by off is red is lean yellow is stoach and green is rick, well when normal driving it will run in the yellow to almost green, then it will drop and bounce between red to yellow the clear up. this thing just dont feel right it feels like it has lost power with this cam. no lowend.i was wondering the guys that have installed the 306 if they have lost lowend power? and also how are you guys setting your valve lash, i go to 0 lash then 1/2 turn.a friend of mine said to run then to 0 lash and leave then no turn. just trying to figure out what the deal is wit this thing. i need to datalog it

 

well it wasnt the tps at all the fuuel pressure was throughing everything off and a weak injector, this is what i did and it seems to be good

well after its all said and done it if fixed as of now. i changed one injector put the factory fuel pressure reg back on, re adjusted the valve lash, put conector grease on all the o2, opti, mass air connectors and it is running so much better. i plan on playing with the timeing table before i go to the dyno to see if i can get more out of it

and also a few people have said that i will have issues with the factory head s and this cam, but all i was seening was the cam works well with the factory heads, is that not true?????

 

well here is a link for a vid let me know what you all think
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1401241481