question about main caps (2 to 4 bolt)
question about main caps (2 to 4 bolt)
i have sbc1 4 bolt main caps, and i have two lt1 2 bolt blocks.
can i have the machince shop drill the lt1 block for the 4 bolt main caps from the sbc1 block? i can see that id need to get it line bored. this may in fact keep me from doing it, but im curious b\c i have the parts...
-doug
can i have the machince shop drill the lt1 block for the 4 bolt main caps from the sbc1 block? i can see that id need to get it line bored. this may in fact keep me from doing it, but im curious b\c i have the parts...
-doug
Buy new billet caps for 2 or 4-bolt mains. The durability between the two has been debated before. Sell the sb1 block with the orignial caps. Once you remove/machine the caps for this engine the sbc1 is worth nothing more than a large paperweight. It's a win win... you'll have strong caps for the new engine and you'll get a few dollars for the old one instead of questionable caps and having to worry about a block of iron taking up space or getting rid of it...
i was not aware there were 2 bolt billet caps, learn some every day. thanks
before i go wasting time and money, can i spin my 2 bolt, with stock caps, and arp main bolt kit, to 6800rpm?
before i go wasting time and money, can i spin my 2 bolt, with stock caps, and arp main bolt kit, to 6800rpm?
Last edited by blackgold84; Jul 12, 2007 at 12:41 AM.
Stock and Super Stock racers ran 2-bolt blocks well over 7000 RPM for years (including myself). Failures related to the maincap configuration were a lot less common than rod failures but the wise and successful racers kept a close watch on their bearings. Now, I look back on "the good old days," take a deep breath, and equip everything with 4-bolt caps and Manley or Crower rods. For the relatively minimal additional expense, why roll the dice?
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