Quality Parts For Rebuild (LT1) Questions?
Quality Parts For Rebuild (LT1) Questions?
I have a 94 z28 lt1 with K&N and flowmasters.
The car has NO PROBLEMS, im just ready for a good rebuild and a little performance while im there. NO TRACK, NOT A RACER, This is my Daily Driver and i do need to pass smog.
Goals: 350 rwhp +/- 20hp is ok also. I just want a reliable 3XXhp.
i plan on using some mac mids, 1.6 roller rockers & springs, a hot cam or something similar, under drive pulleys, new fuel injectors if needed, throttle body bypass, and airfoil. To go along with the rebuild.
AS FOR THE REBUILD QUESTIONS.
I will NOT be doing the rebuild myself, i just want to buy the parts so i know the quality going into my Camaro
Is there a good quality kit to buy?
or
Should i get everything separate? if so Please list Brand of parts and where they can be purchased
ALL INFO IS USEFUL THANKS!
The car has NO PROBLEMS, im just ready for a good rebuild and a little performance while im there. NO TRACK, NOT A RACER, This is my Daily Driver and i do need to pass smog.
Goals: 350 rwhp +/- 20hp is ok also. I just want a reliable 3XXhp.
i plan on using some mac mids, 1.6 roller rockers & springs, a hot cam or something similar, under drive pulleys, new fuel injectors if needed, throttle body bypass, and airfoil. To go along with the rebuild.
AS FOR THE REBUILD QUESTIONS.
I will NOT be doing the rebuild myself, i just want to buy the parts so i know the quality going into my Camaro

Is there a good quality kit to buy?
or
Should i get everything separate? if so Please list Brand of parts and where they can be purchased
ALL INFO IS USEFUL THANKS!
you can buy a compustar rotating assembly, or eagle rotating assembly. For what you want, both will be fine. Talk to the machine shop thatw ill be doing the work and get what they recommend and are comfortable working with.
As far as a cam, I would look at a cc305
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-305-8/
its a little bigger than a hotcam, but in my opinion, is a LOT better cam
otherwise look at the lingenfelter LPE 219/219 as it is, in my opinion, the BEST daily driver cam you can get and has tons of performance to boot.
Theres a book I bought at barnes and nobles years ago, called "small block chevy performance" from S.A. Designs, John Baechtel is the author. they offer TONS of books, one about the LT1 specifically. they will give you a ton of tips about what to look for in parts for rebuilding, including cams, cylinder heads, etc.
Remember this about cylinder heads, you want heads that have good flow throughout all the lift numbers instead of one with just killer top end lift flow numbers.
As far as a cam, I would look at a cc305
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-305-8/
its a little bigger than a hotcam, but in my opinion, is a LOT better cam
otherwise look at the lingenfelter LPE 219/219 as it is, in my opinion, the BEST daily driver cam you can get and has tons of performance to boot.
Theres a book I bought at barnes and nobles years ago, called "small block chevy performance" from S.A. Designs, John Baechtel is the author. they offer TONS of books, one about the LT1 specifically. they will give you a ton of tips about what to look for in parts for rebuilding, including cams, cylinder heads, etc.
Remember this about cylinder heads, you want heads that have good flow throughout all the lift numbers instead of one with just killer top end lift flow numbers.
Thanks Reamo04 while researching that LPE cam i seen alot of people say get a custom grind from Lloyd so i might go that way with the price being cheaper than the LPE. Ill look around for the book but when it comes to the building of a engine ill leave it to the pros 
also I did a search on yahoo for compustar rotating assembly and didnt find anything.
I did a search on Eagle and found mostly 383 kits. even the ones that said 350 if you read inside says 383
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=MkMdlYrSearch

also I did a search on yahoo for compustar rotating assembly and didnt find anything.
I did a search on Eagle and found mostly 383 kits. even the ones that said 350 if you read inside says 383

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=MkMdlYrSearch
Its "Compstar", and made by Callies. Its their line of products that are manufactured "overseas", but machined in the US.
http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/compstar.htm
http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/compstar.htm
In my opinion if you're gonna go through with all the work/costs of a rebuild... Why not o with a 383 stroker? If you go with a tame cam you will easilly see 3xx rwhp+ and still Pass emssions... Plus you can say you like being stroked
might as well take the oportunity to have a chanc for more power down the road... You'll want it eventually 
That's how I see it though.
might as well take the oportunity to have a chanc for more power down the road... You'll want it eventually 
That's how I see it though.
Don't bother rebuilding it if there are no problems. The stock assembly is pretty good within the mild limitations you propose. Start putting things in there like a cast aftermarket crank and heavy thick ring old style pistons and you start building a step BACKWARDS in a hurry.
The UD pulley is a waste too, leave them to cars with belt driven waterpumps.
$3000 wont buy a QUALITY engine, it might buy an OK shortblock but then a LOT of other costly stuff has to be bolted to that shortblock.
The UD pulley is a waste too, leave them to cars with belt driven waterpumps.
$3000 wont buy a QUALITY engine, it might buy an OK shortblock but then a LOT of other costly stuff has to be bolted to that shortblock.
For the rings make sure they are the 1/16ths and not the 5/64 thick ones.
If you peice it together you can get the parts pretty reasonable and buy better rings and Bearings than come with the eagle kits, the eagle cranks and rods will work fine, just go with a better piston.
Machine shop prices can be reasonable or outrageous, here locally (to me) I can get all the machining and balancing done for a stroker for around 1000$ minus parts.
But if there is nothing wrong with the stock motor, leave it alone !!!!
If you peice it together you can get the parts pretty reasonable and buy better rings and Bearings than come with the eagle kits, the eagle cranks and rods will work fine, just go with a better piston.
Machine shop prices can be reasonable or outrageous, here locally (to me) I can get all the machining and balancing done for a stroker for around 1000$ minus parts.
But if there is nothing wrong with the stock motor, leave it alone !!!!
Then a compression test would confirm that it is still healthy.
No knocks, no problem.....lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oldschool
Parts For Sale
16
Feb 9, 2016 09:21 PM



