put me on the road to 380RWHP please.
#1
put me on the road to 380RWHP please.
hello everybody. i've been trying to decide keep the lt1 or "upgrade" to the ls1. i've read numerous times in the lt1 tech that once you do heads/cam the two powerplants are equal. i'm not quite convinced of this though. i see alot of ls1 cars with H/C putting down 380rwhp and still getting 24mpg on the highway. my car only gets 25mpg on the highway and it's completely stock! i love my LT1 and the styling of the 97, so if i can get my goals with this platform then that's awesome...but what do you guys suggest i do to get there w/o forced induction? a mild cam with great tuning will keep my gas mileage where i want it, but would that get me to 380rwhp?
i'm sure this goal is pretty similar to alot of you guys so maybe the experienced LT1 owners can help us out here.
thankyou,
Michael.
i'm sure this goal is pretty similar to alot of you guys so maybe the experienced LT1 owners can help us out here.
thankyou,
Michael.
#3
many with the cc305 cam and the lt4 hot cam say they get about the same milage that they got with there stock cams, to reach 380 rwhp with a mild cam i highly suggest either a good set of head from a reputable shop or a touch of nitrou also some suggest the 224/230xe cam. but i say heads are a must if you go the nitrous free way with a mild cam.
#4
Originally posted by Z95m6
fully ported heads and a 230/236 or cc306 will get you there. Some guy this week just made a post of his ported heads and 230/236 making 384 rwhp. I can't wait to get mine dyno'ed.
fully ported heads and a 230/236 or cc306 will get you there. Some guy this week just made a post of his ported heads and 230/236 making 384 rwhp. I can't wait to get mine dyno'ed.
i know the the saying if you want power then forget about gas mileage, but i know it's possible to have both, plus that means you're using everything more efficiently and getting the most out of it. maybe that guy can let us know how the drivability is and mileage if he's payed any attention to it.
#5
Originally posted by 93formula
many with the cc305 cam and the lt4 hot cam say they get about the same milage that they got with there stock cams, to reach 380 rwhp with a mild cam i highly suggest either a good set of head from a reputable shop or a touch of nitrou also some suggest the 224/230xe cam. but i say heads are a must if you go the nitrous free way with a mild cam.
many with the cc305 cam and the lt4 hot cam say they get about the same milage that they got with there stock cams, to reach 380 rwhp with a mild cam i highly suggest either a good set of head from a reputable shop or a touch of nitrou also some suggest the 224/230xe cam. but i say heads are a must if you go the nitrous free way with a mild cam.
i'm really just trying to see if it's going to me more difficult to get that much power out of an LT1 as compared to the LS1. i'd rather do it with the LT1 just because it's the underdog of the two.
#8
Originally posted by ATMINF
Just say screw it and slap on a blower and don't look back, well until the rebuild comes along. Then rebuild it right, and then don't look back!
Just say screw it and slap on a blower and don't look back, well until the rebuild comes along. Then rebuild it right, and then don't look back!
I just picked up a brand new p600b with twin intercooler for really cheap. I know the bottom end won't last long but I already have $1,100 saved up for a rebuild and I would like to get those kind of numbers NOW...lol.
#9
well a local with the lt4 hot cam, mac headers stock cat back minus the cat put down 328 rwhp, thats just the cam and bolt ons, and stock tb. add a 50 or 75 shot and your there and beyond. if you get your heads ported i think most places charge about 1500, ive heard a lot of good things form flow technik heads( i think thats how you spell it) but there are many other to choose from.
another guy dynoed with 324rwhp with the cc305 cam and stock heads and mac headers and the same guy dynoed 334 with the cutout open.
if 380 is your goal then stick with the lt1. the ls1 will be a huge headache of a swap if you dont know what your doing, plus will end up costing you more in the long run. unless you get a wicked deal, and youll have to swap out your tranny cause lt1 trannys dont work with ls1s( as far as i know). and ls1 trannys have been known to go south.
so i say save your trouble stick with the lt1, do the cam swap first and see how you like it, then add heads or nitrous depending on cash flow.
another guy dynoed with 324rwhp with the cc305 cam and stock heads and mac headers and the same guy dynoed 334 with the cutout open.
if 380 is your goal then stick with the lt1. the ls1 will be a huge headache of a swap if you dont know what your doing, plus will end up costing you more in the long run. unless you get a wicked deal, and youll have to swap out your tranny cause lt1 trannys dont work with ls1s( as far as i know). and ls1 trannys have been known to go south.
so i say save your trouble stick with the lt1, do the cam swap first and see how you like it, then add heads or nitrous depending on cash flow.
#10
With the platform your working with it will take some work. Fully ported heads and probably bigger valves. I recommend Lloyd Elliot for the work. Also you will need a nice cam, long tube headers, Y-pipe, cutout, 1.6RR, upgraded springs and bolt ons. With this combo I would also recommend 3.42 or 3.73 gears and a stall. That should put a smile on your face! If not spray it some but start saving for a rebuild as you may see over 450RWHP with just a 75 shot.
Brad
Brad
#11
Originally posted by 93formula
the ls1 will be a huge headache of a swap if you dont know what your doing, plus will end up costing you more in the long run. unless you get a wicked deal, and youll have to swap out your tranny cause lt1 trannys dont work with ls1s( as far as i know). and ls1 trannys have been known to go south.
so i say save your trouble stick with the lt1, do the cam swap first and see how you like it, then add heads or nitrous depending on cash flow.
the ls1 will be a huge headache of a swap if you dont know what your doing, plus will end up costing you more in the long run. unless you get a wicked deal, and youll have to swap out your tranny cause lt1 trannys dont work with ls1s( as far as i know). and ls1 trannys have been known to go south.
so i say save your trouble stick with the lt1, do the cam swap first and see how you like it, then add heads or nitrous depending on cash flow.
i haven't seen too many numbers posted of heads/cam lt1's making anywhere near 400rwhp. again, i'm not doggin' on the lt1, i truely think it's a great engine. i'm just saying for the goal i'm looking for the ls1 might be more practical, mostly because of the headflow ls1s are capable of.
#12
Originally posted by BradZ28
With the platform your working with it will take some work. Fully ported heads and probably bigger valves. I recommend Lloyd Elliot for the work. Also you will need a nice cam, long tube headers, Y-pipe, cutout, 1.6RR, upgraded springs and bolt ons. With this combo I would also recommend 3.42 or 3.73 gears and a stall. That should put a smile on your face! If not spray it some but start saving for a rebuild as you may see over 450RWHP with just a 75 shot.
Brad
With the platform your working with it will take some work. Fully ported heads and probably bigger valves. I recommend Lloyd Elliot for the work. Also you will need a nice cam, long tube headers, Y-pipe, cutout, 1.6RR, upgraded springs and bolt ons. With this combo I would also recommend 3.42 or 3.73 gears and a stall. That should put a smile on your face! If not spray it some but start saving for a rebuild as you may see over 450RWHP with just a 75 shot.
Brad
that looks about like the type of setup i'd go after if i stuck with lt1. also, how is it on gas? i want this to be something i can drive out of state to car shows and cruise-ins. i've got a 3.42 rearend waiting to go in if i ever decide i'm for sure keeping the car.
#14
See the mods in my sig and the numbers. That how I got to 380 rwhp. I went from almost stock (just a CAI and exhaust) to cam, heads, headers, etc. It was a large seat of the pants change to say the least. I got all the parts together and then had them installed. Total cost on the project was about $5500, including dyno tuning. The only things left stock on the engine are the shortblock and oil pan.
Take out some of the extras and do the work yourself, and you could conceivably do it for about $3500.
Take out some of the extras and do the work yourself, and you could conceivably do it for about $3500.
#15
I am hopeing for 380RWHP with a HUGE torgue curve. Maybe more with an electric H20 pump, DYNO tune and a bigger throttlebody. I honestly wouldn't be as concerned with peak HP as I would with a flat torque curve. After all that's what gets the car moving. If you are after 400RWHP email Lloyd with as much info as you can give him. His address is NightTrain66@msn.com
Brad
Also I'm not sure about gas mileage but if I stay off of the gas I'm sure it will be reasonable. Maybe 20mpg?
Brad
Also I'm not sure about gas mileage but if I stay off of the gas I'm sure it will be reasonable. Maybe 20mpg?
Last edited by BradZ28; 07-24-2003 at 01:35 PM.