i checked pushrod length with a checker and my stock pushrods. i used my comp r lifters and pro magnum rockers. marked the tip of valve and rocker with marker, cranked engine 2 times and with stock rod it made a mark right in the middle. tightened rocker to zero lash and then a 1/6 turn. i dont need a solid lifter when i do this right?
i made the checker rod longer and shorter and it moved it off center so it seems i did it right.
i have a 224/230 cam, comp r lifters, prog magnum rocker and ported heads.

let me know if this sounds right
thanks

 

Solid lifter and "0" lash no more no less.
If ya got a stock lifter take it apart and take the insides out, cut a bolt Just long enough to re install the cap and lock ring walla solid lifter.

 

ok i did what u said. i took an old lifter and put a couple weld tacs on it so it wont move to make it solid and set rockers at zero lash. marked the valve tip with marker and tried stock length pushrod first. it made the mark more towards the bottom. it wasn't too far down but enough. then i tried my pushrod checker just a bit shorter than stock at 7.150 and it makes a mark basically dead center on the valve tip.
so i think thats correct and that means i need 7.150 length.

my heads were slightly milled i believe so this all makes sense.

anybody know a cheap place to get these?
i can only find these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku

 

Ya need to have the line as narrow as possible and as close to center as possible.To the intake side is a bit better if it has to be off.Ya may not get it dead nuts and that's OK.
Most pushrods are listed in .050 lengths,but you can have custom made. My findings are that .050 doesn't change much in pattern.

 

Sorry this is off topic, but if the pushrods not quite the right length could it cause a noisy valve train? I have not had a chance to check the length yet, but the car runs fine, the valves are just noisey. Ive adjusted the valves numerous times, ive just never thought to check the length.

 

well its pretty close to the center basically right on. as far as the thickness of the line. if its in the middle can that change or should it be good? if i adjust the pushrod shorter or longer it moves line up and down. dont see too much change in the thickness of the line.

 

If ya go .050 longer or shorter and it don't change ya are close and good to go.
Ya can fiddle with it for hours to get .010 less line width.
Looks like your builder had his head in the game afterall.

 

I don't know if the PR's Summit sells are any good or not. But I wouldn't be buying them based on price. Like a chain, a valvetrain is only as good as the weakest part. If you need good lifters and rockers, you need good pushrods. There's a number of good brands: Comp and Manley come to mind. Manton makes a great product at a fair price and has EXCELLENT service, go to them if you need something special. I have become a "convert" now and wouldn't buy pushrods from anyone else.

Rich

 

How reputable are the ones Thunder racing re-brands?

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=106

i only ask b/c i will be doing heads/cam in the next few months...