I am in the midst of a h/c swap and I'm going to just pull the engine to finish the job and make things a little easier when installing everything. I'm not necessarily asking for a guide, but if anyone has a good one for pulling the motor out the top (like I will be) I'm interested.

My main reason for posting is I'm wondering if maybe it will be a little easier to pull it out of the top than I have read about so far, seeing as I already have a lot taken off. Currently the headers are unbolted, the intake manifold is off, waterpump, opti, alternator, fans, valve covers, and EGR are all off. Will this make the process of actually getting the engine out easier? I'm thinking because a lot of the size and some weight are gone, maybe I won't have to hard of a time manuevering it out without hurting anything?

 

Need a cherry picker... an engine leveler helps too.

-Drain your fluids (Motor, Trans)
- Unbolt the 4 bolts to your driveshaft (from your rear end) Slide the DS out of the trans.
- Spray WD-40 or any other lube on the rubber trans bracket the torque arm slides into, this makes it easier to slide out.
- Unbolt trans brace 4 bolts
- Unbolt motor mounts (2 bolts total, one going through each side motor mounts) (your hoist and leveler should already be installed.
-Raise the rear 6-8 inches sit your tires on blocks (optional) I found it easier to get the motor/trans out.
- Remove your hood, 4 bolts total (2 on each hinge)

Considering you've taken a bunch of things off, you should just be able to pull the trans and motor out. I was able to reinstall my motor, trans with a EWP, intake, and Long tubes on.

 

I'm picking up the hoist tomorrow. I wasn't planning on removing the tranny as well. Wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the engine and pull that out alone? Thanks a lot for the little write-up.

 

Now this is the answer I was looking for, for a while. I posted a simmilar question a while back but no answer. Some of my F-Body friends said they can get the motor out of the top in 2 hours. Then again they go through motors quite often. I guess practice makes perfect.

 

if all your doing is a head cam swap and you already have that much work done i think imo it would be really silly to pull the motor to finish it

 

Just pulled my sons motor out the top yesterday. Trans out unhook exhaust pull accessories. Radiator, condensing unit. Pick it up and move it forward about 8 inches then pick up about 6-8 inches from the front of the pickup chain, this will pick the front up at an angle that will give you plenty of clearance.

 

That's true but I'm having a hard time getting the head bolts off under the headers. It wouldn't be a problem if I had more slack in the headers, but they're welded down lower so I don't have much play at all. That's just the way it is, so I figure once the motor is out, I'll have my car up and running in half the time it would take me if I were to continue as is. Pulling and replacing the heads will then be a matter of minutes I would imagine, as with the cam. Not necessarily a matter of time, as much as just a hassle continuing as is.

Thanks a lot for the help so far guys

 

If you feel it is less work to pull the motor alone...

-Do not remove the Driveshaft/trans crossmemb.

-Using two 12inch extentions a universal swivel and a 3/8 ratchet there are 6 transmission to motor bolts, and three torque converter to flywheel bolts. unbolt those and the motor comes out alone. (I don't know if you have a converter shield i think that has 4 small bolts)

The reason i figured you would want to pull them both is the bolts are a pain to get to, and its faster just pulling the DS and crossmember.

Do you plan to do anything while the block is out. Ex. Machine work (hone, bore, bearings, seals?)

 

No, I'm just swapping the heads and cam. Thanks for the tips

 

JooneJune, when you told me to drain all of the fluids from both the motor and the tranny, is that absolutely neccessary? Or was it more just to lighten the load? I have the coolant drained so far and was hoping to keep the oil and trans oil in place.
One more question too... how do you typically hook the engine up to the cherry picker? Remember, I don't have my intake on anymore and thats how I see it done in most of the pics I looked at.
Thanks

 

i dont know if you are DEAD SET on taking it out the top but seriously, it is sooo easy to take out of the bottom. my first time doing it it took me 2 hours MAX with my dad helping. if i did it again i dont think it would take any more than 1 hour. think about how much easier it would be to just wheel the assembled k member back under the car. but then again i never took it out from the top. to each his own.

 

I'm not sure if I'll be able to get my car up high enough in my garage for one thing, also my car is on ramps and is too close to the wall for me to manuever all that to where I can work on it. It'll be a close fit with the cherry picker.

 

95, I pulled my motor throught the top...motor only...going back I'm going to attatch the tranny (a4) before I go back in...getting to those bolts will get you ill....you can always take your headers out and finish the project where you are at and you won't have to drain your fluids......the reason to drain them will be so you don't get fluids all over your workspace...beware, my cam swap turned into a complete motor rebuild, aftermarket goodies in the bottom, full bolt ons, cam/heads, the works....and I have the cam I was originally going to use still sitting in the box...

 

I can't take my headers out because they are welded to the y-pipe and the catback. I don't have my own welder here to patch it up then. Are you talking about the tranny bolts or the head bolts that I can't get to?