LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

How strong of a Cherry Picker for engine removal through bottom?

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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B-Rad420's Avatar
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How strong of a Cherry Picker for engine removal through bottom?

I am looking at this cherry picker at Harbor Freight for $150 and it has an 8 ton ram but can only support 1000lbs when the arm is fully extended out. Do you think this will be enough to lift the front end of the car if the entire front k member, engine, suspension, steering, etc was not attached (removing engine through bottom).
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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>get this or equivelant... http://www.haynes.com/products/?sear...amaro&x=15&y=9 before you start and screw something up.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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I cant think of one time my haynes manual helped, try and find the factory one that thing is like the bible.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:14 AM
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I dont think Haynes cover lifting your car up with a cherry picker, or do they? I already have a dealer manual but I just need to know if a 1000lb cherry picker can support the front of a t/a without k member and everything bolted to it.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 04:24 AM
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I used a cherry-picker engine hoist from Schucks, that is damn near a harbor freight twin.(i think) 4 extension settings...(2 ton, 1.5 ton, 1 ton, .5 ton)

1st engine swap I did through the bottom it lifted everything fine using 1/2 ton setting...went to do a second engine swap and with the entire car being supported by the hoist (1/2 ton setting), the metal tubing began to split as I was lowering the vehicle. Luckily, for some crazy reason it stopped splitting after about 4inches and the whole car didn't crash to the ground.

The hoist will work fine...just DO NOT use the most extended setting (1/2), use 1 ton or higher. Just my recommendation.

I'll post a picture of the split hoist here soon as I find it...
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 04:31 AM
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Here's the pic:

Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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>The Haynes manual coverts a lot of terminology that the factory manual takes for granted (laymans terms) I actually thought it was very helpfull when I replaced the stock engine with my 396 LT1.
There are just 6 bolts that hold the K member on andif you have enough blocks of wood and 6 ton floor jack stands (for the height) you should have an easy time doing it from the bottom if you choose.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:05 AM
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I used the harbor frieght model for pulling the 326 motor out of my firebird at full extension. Not sure about lifting your whole car though. If your concerned I would not go cheap if saftey is an issue.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:19 AM
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I used one of the Torin "Big Red" cherry pickers to get the job done. Set it at 1/2 ton as it's the only way I could fit it.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by B-Rad420
I am looking at this cherry picker at Harbor Freight for $150 and it has an 8 ton ram but can only support 1000lbs when the arm is fully extended out. Do you think this will be enough to lift the front end of the car if the entire front k member, engine, suspension, steering, etc was not attached (removing engine through bottom).
I had a 1k one with it extended too and it worked fine.... no issues at all.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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The front of the car with the K-member/engine dettached is not super heavy. A medium size CP will be fine. You can also add weight to the trunk to further lighten the front.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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/the haynes manual says to take it out the top and says its dangerous to take it out the bottom w/o a lift\ ///i used a cherry picker that sounds like the one you mentioned with no problem lifting the body. very simple process but just be careful.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyb
/the haynes manual says to take it out the top and says its dangerous to take it out the bottom w/o a lift\ ///i used a cherry picker that sounds like the one you mentioned with no problem lifting the body. very simple process but just be careful.
+1
Just use your head, pay attention and be careful. No lift nedded.
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