One thing I didn't see on her was to be careful about the brake lines going into the ABS block. When you drop the k-member you will have to disconnect them.

 

line 14, I will even number the lines for easy reading

 

And once again they are a SOB to crack loose without damaging the fittings. You do not need to remove the rear line BTW.

 

well i got a chance to get started on it tonight, i worked for like an hour and a half and the only thing i have to do is remove the k-member bolts and raise the car

everything was pretty straitforward and simple, thanks to dave for his nice list he put together

and as for the brake lines, they were really tight but i just used a line wrench and they came right out


once again thanks to everyone who responded, i really appreciate it

 

took about a half hour today to get the motor on the ground



and about another hour to get the k-member back in, push the car out and clean up

all said and done about 3.5 for the total job, now to dissasemble and get the heads and block out for some special treatment

 

3.5 is about right for the first time


tip, if you had been able to leave the car on the hoist, a ratchet strap and 2 blocks of wood would have allowed you to roll the k-member out of the way with the engine still on it, just a jack under the trans

 

I know this is reviving an old thread, but I am about to pull my engine out the bottom as well. I have a scissor style trans jack that i can use to support the trans, but my question is this, can I just leave the wheels on and roll it out from under the car that way or would it be easier to lower the k-member onto a roller dolly?

 

It will probably be easier to remove the wheels to have more room to work before and after you drop it out. Just get a couple $15 furniture dollies from Harbour Freight to sit the engine/tranny on.

FWIW don't forget to drain the tranny fluid before you pull the drive shaft yoke out (like I did yesterday).

 

I have a metal dolly its 30"x44" that they use at the grocery store to transport double racks of bread.I built a wood cradle to fit in it that was high an long enough to support the engine/trans and k member high enough off the ground that I was able to install the combo with mid tubes,and hook up the k member and trans mount.It was cool cause you could line every thing up and bolt it tight before you reraised the lift.

 

I left the wheels on one, but make sure you put a 4x4 block of wood between the lower control arm and the k-member, so it doesn't drop too far

I should have a pic of one i did like that, one sec

 

here it is

 

Love the massive oil leak on the back of the engine...I just discovered mine today also.


Good ol LT1 intake manifolds