Just picked up my Skinnies, set of 15x3.5 Weld Prostars. What size spacer do I need to clear the breaks?

Thanks,
Jason

 

I run a 3/8" spacer on the front of my '96, but I have '98+ brakes on it. Be sure to run longer wheelstuds up front if you're going to use a spacer (it's a good idea anyway).

 

Do you think a 3/8" spacer will work with LT1 Breaks? Also, how hard is it to change the wheel studs up front?

Thanks,
Jason

 

Most people use 5/16's, including me. I am still running the stock front studs though, along with all of my friends. It's not "tech" legal, but my track doesn't check for it and it feels like I enganged enough threads to be safe

 

The spacers are cheap and if they don't work you can 1) grind the calipers a little (I did on my 98+ brakes) or 2) return them and get a slightly thicker spacer. Changing the wheelstuds is easy if you have access to airtools. You hammer out the old wheelstuds and them pull the new ones in using an impact, some washers and some spare lugs.

Here are some pics that might change your mind:

http://www.purplecar.org/arp-studs/sm-P0001694.JPG - this picture shows how far the stock wheelstuds protrude from the Weld wheels. Remember, the firs 1/2" of the studs DO NOT HAVE THREADS ON THEM.

http://www.purplecar.org/arp-studs/sm-P0001702.JPG - stock vs ARP

http://www.purplecar.org/arp-studs/sm-P0001704.JPG - stock vs ARP

http://www.purplecar.org/arp-studs/sm-P0001712.JPG - wheel installed and tq'd, ARPs protruding from the face of the wheel

The ARP studs are so easy and inexpensive, I would recommend anyone using skinnies to do the mod. It makes installing the wheels a breeze, too!

 

I will probably go ahead and get the longer front studs then. Especially since they seem like they are an easy install. I already had long studs w/ my 12 bolt.

I really wish I didn't have to use any spacer. I hate how far out the skinnies stick out on f-bodies. They sit flush, but I'd like to see them inside about 1/2-1".

Later,
Jason

 

I use 5/16" spacers with the Pro-Stars. Agree, it moves them out a little too far. The problem is not the caliper on the LT1 brakes, but the big horizontal bar on the steering knuckle that supports the pads and caliper. You could grind a little off that, but I wouldn't take too much off of it. Remember, the caliperr moves outward on that bar when you put new pads on. Then you have the spring clip that holds the pads in the caliper. There's not much you can to about that... too little clearance and the wheel will catch them.

I second Wayne's opinion on the longer studs. The tech "rules" usually are based on safe design principles. In this case, its a good idea.

 

What about light weight breaks? I want to get them anyway. Would they give any extra clearance? And who in the world makes light weight breaks. I sure haven't seen any companies sellin um =)

Thanks,
Jason

 

I know Mark Williams makes light weight front brakes. And I know the AutoDrag 15x3.5's fit over them with no spacers. Not sure about the Pro-Stars. Wilwood makes some, but not sure if they have a "4th Gen" model.

 

Does Mark Williams have a web site I can check out? man wouldn't that be nice. Lose 30lbs and not have to use spacers =)

Jason

 

Strange makes them. So does Aerospace. Billingsley Racing sells them both. I spoke with Jay about them and he says that both kits will work with Weld Draglites(not sure about Prostars) with out grinding or spacers. I don't know if they are recommended for street cars. I was inquiring about a racing application. Mark Williams sells a kit also.

 

MARK WILLIAMS

George Baxter has the Mark Williams brakes. He also just switched to the Bogart P1 Billet wheels. He saved 3# each on the fronts, over his AutoDrags, including the lighter lugnuts on the Bogarts. And the Bogarts fit with no spacers with the MW brakes, or will fit the stock brakes with no spacers if you order a 4th Gen specific wheel. And they don't need longer studs.

 

I'm pretty much commited to my Prostars, since all 4 are brand new w/ new tires. I may consider Bogarts down the road if I dont get the times I am looking for w/ other modifications first.

I'll check out all those sites..

Thanks again!!

Jason

 

What would be the reason you couldn't use the kits on the street? I see aerospace sells a kit that is street usable though which is nice. And wow 50lbs from breaks is a lot! This is definitly something I'd like to do this summer!

How hard is the install? I've never really done much in the way of break work before other than changing rotors and pads.

Jason

 

Drag brakes are sized to pull the car down from a high speed pass exactly once. Then they cool off and you do it all over again. And, you aren't worried about pad wear... you only drive a few miles a year, 1/4-mile at a time. Strip brakes don't have to contend with standing water. A lot of differences in designing a general purpose brake for 15K miles of street driving a year, and a set that only has one very specific, well defined purpose. Look at the various "drag" brake conversions, and most of them have a specific vehicle weight limitation for each model.

For a true daily driver + every weekend at the strip, I would give a little bit extra weight to the street driving requirements, vs. weight savings for the strip.