I recently changed my spark plugs in the Z and torqued them to 11 ft lbs per the spec listed in my Helm manual for the 94 Z28. Yesterday I was looking at Shoebox's website and he has the engine specs listed for the 95 LT1 and it says 20 ft lbs.
http://shbox.com/1/engine_specs.jpg
Did GM really change the the torque spec for spark plugs from 11 to 20 ft lbs between 94 and 95 or am I missing something?
Should I re-torque the plugs to 20 ft lbs?
Thanks,
Steve

 

No, leave them. I don't even torque them, just go easy until they stop moving then apply a little more pressure. You don't want to get those stuck in the head.

 

finger tight, the a little more should be adequate, it's no fun trying to get a busted plug from there.....trust me

 

Plugs are one of the few things I don't use a torque wrench on. Use a little "Never Seize" and then tighten as in the above thread - till you feel it bottom out then just a little bit more.

Rich

 

Thanks for catching that. It was a typo in the factory manual. I fixed it. 11 is good.

 

german torque on plugs....good n tight

 

Nein! German tight (Gut en Tight) is too tight for plugs, especially in aluminum heads.

Rich

 

Thanks everyone... I'm just releived that I don't have to try to get my torque wrench on the plugs again!!! Not an easy job with the stock manifolds!

 

I'm not saying as tight as you can get them....just snug and a little extra

 

I'm amazed that you could actually get a torque wrench on all of the plugs in the first place! Just changing the damn things is a JOB in itself. Here's what I use:
http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=30102
with:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT

 

Maybe I'm still a little old fashioned but I don't use my torque wrench for anything short of head bolts and bearing caps. Everything else gets tightened to what I feel is appropriate. If it is a 1/4" bolt I certainly don't put a 1/2" drive ratchet on it and crank on it. If it is a 1/2" hardened grade 8 bolt I give it considerably more torque. I have been doing it this way for over 20 years and it hasn't failed me yet. I pay attention to bolt/nut size, material the bolt and threads are made of, and the application. That along with feel seems to work well for me.

No I do not recommend this method to other people. If you are unsure then find the specs and use a torque wrench.

 

What is anti-seize and why is it needed?

 

anti-seize is just what it says it is......keeps things from seizing. The heat from the heads on aluminum engines can cause corrosion to build up making the plugs hard to get out and might mess up the aluminum threads in the heads if forced out. Anti-seize is kinda like a metallic paste that you put on the threads to keep this from happening