I picked up a low mileage used LT1 engine to swap for my blown one. Since the used one hasn't been run in a couple years, do I need to need to shoot some WD40 into the cylinder bores before I attempt to roll the crank over by hand. Had seen some mechanics do that with older engines. I didn't have compression test equipment when I picked it up, but have some now to double check the status of the engine. Do I just need to crank each cylinder to TDC to check compression? Can I tell TDC by both rockers being lined up on "center line" on the end of the valve stems? Anything else I should check before I get ready to install it?

Thanks,

 

I would probably just get some fogging seafoam and hit it with that then turn it by hand.

 

I would check all the gaskets and IMO I would replace the oil pan gasket $20-30 plus some permatex. I just did a motor swap with an engine that had been setting for a while I went ahead and primed it just to be safe since I swapped intakes with my blown motor I was there anyway.

To do a compression test you want injectors disconnected, throttle blades blocked open, consistent number of cranks per cylinder. The objective is not to see the absolute value, the objective is to look for the degree of variation from cylinder to cylinder.

 

Yeah, I've pulled the intake to make sure everything looks good. What did you use to prime the engine, an old distributor or specialized tool? You just removed the distributor hole cap at the end of the oil valley and ran the tool down to the oil pump, correct?

Thanks.

 

Yes I used an old oil pump shaft when you pull the stub shaft out the oil pump shaft will be right there. Just be careful not to spin it to fast and keep it straight or you could break the plastic coupler that holds the oil pump shaft together.