between run 0 and 9 whatever adjustments the tuner made...it only netted around 5 HP/TQ increase. Even with some fueling tweaks to get the AF a "little" better is not going to pick up 30+ HP

we do assume the cam is installed correctly....and the parking brake was not on during the pulls :-)

Did Lloyd advise what the HP would be with cam only + tune?

 

As far as Lloyd said, cam, plus valve train upgrade, plus tune would get 340-360 rwhp along with my headers and rest of exhaust. Cam was installed correctly (that went in easy). I do believe the valves need alittle more adjustment which I am working on now. A for sale post on craigslist is looking better each day

 

what I see on graph is only 5 hp increase between run 0 and 9.

was run 0 before he made any tune adjustments? (baseline)

 

I don't think he ran a baseline because the car wasn't running 100% when I dropped it off to him. I do believe though that I have a problem with the valve train. It's pretty noisy, so that may be a factor as to why the car didn't make the kinda power it should have. Might be a bad lifter of pushrods might be the wrong length even though I checked them.

 

Back when I put my LT4 hot cam kit(220/230 .525/.525) in. I had AS&M midlengths and CAI. a cheap cat back and accell 300+ with coil. I put down 324/320 at the wheels on a Dynojet

 

apparently my last post didn't..."post"

OP

you said "wasn't running 100% when you dropped off the car"...

did you mean because it had a cam with no tune and that is why it was not 100%?

so the dyno guy flashed his initial tune and 9 runs later it only gained 5hp with tweaks beyond the 1st pull?

The dyno graph itself looks fairly smooth suggesting it is not breaking up..

did you do the valve cover clearance mod for the RR or are you running aftermarket valve covers?

did the dyno guy indicate a bunch of timing is being pulled because of knock?

Lunati is good stuff so assuming all was installed right the lifters & PR should not be the cause of this

 

Question did you install a new timing chain and gear set, if not maybe chain stretch is retarding your cam timing?

 

The car wasn't running 100% because of it not being tuned. Kinda hesitating and that. I'm running aftermarket valve covers that are 1/4 taller then stock. I did stick with the stock and original timing chain and gear because the car only has 50K miles. I thought it would be ok to use still. I'm just at a dead end on where to check or look at next.

 

Could it possibly be that the knock sensor is picking up the noise from the rockers and retarding the timing which is giving me low numbers. Lloyd said with his cam and the 6.950 length pushrods I put in and 1/4 turn after zero lash the valvetrain shouldn't be making noise but it is? So I feel I have a couple issues going on here.

 

are you sure the 6.950" PR are the right length??

they are shorter than most.....your RR are not hitting the retainers are they?

which would cause knock and timing would be pulled

did the dyno tuner say he was seeing timing pulled because of knock ( I ask again)?

if no to all the above...maybe try another tuner

 

I measured for the PR's and I'm pretty sure that's correct. I sent pictures to Lloyd to have another set of eyes look to see if i was correct. Pretty sure as well the rockets aren't hitting the retainers but I'll triple check that tonight. As far as the tuner saying something about timing he told me he put as much timing into it as he could that would still be safe to run.

To be honest I don't remember if he said anything about timing being retarted because of knock. I don't think he did. But the rockers or lifters do seem loud to me.

 

RR do sound "louder" than stamped rockers. More like a sewing machine sound, not a knocking sound.

when you pop your VC off just rotate the engine by hand a few times and watch carefully on a intake & exhaust valve to confirm there is no contact from the RR body to retainer (would be intake side of retainer if there was).

The LT4 came with RR and had a different knock module in the PCM to help deal with the harmonics the RR put off so timing was not pulled due to the noise. They also used composite valve covers. Many use the LT4 knock module and stock steel VC though, I do. Sadly those LT4 modules are very hard to find now

From this side of the internet we don't know what yours sound like. The tuner should have said if he was seeing knock pulling timing though

If all mechanically is sound, might want to use another tuner. One familiar with the LT1 platform. There are several. Mail order would be OK.

Given your mods you should be seeing some more HP than you do now