polylocs and 0 lash?
polylocs and 0 lash?
I've been reading the shoebox website on how you adjust polylocs. From what I made of it, you just adjust the nut with the allen lock backed off of it until the nut stops and then you just run the allen set screw all the way down and thats it. But then it talks about marking the nut with a dab of white paint too see how far the nut has been turned to set the preload. So i'm a little confused on that one, why would you mark the nut if you are already at 0 lash? Is it even possible to incorrectly adjust polylocks and go past 0 lash???
Re: polylocs and 0 lash?
Originally Posted by 93camaroLT1
you just adjust the nut with the allen lock backed off of it until the nut stops and then you just run the allen set screw all the way down and thats it.
Re: polylocs and 0 lash?
back the nut off, rotate the pushrod with your fingers, moves nice and easy. As you tighten the nut there will come a point where the pushrod won't rotate easily, won't rotate without considerable force. This change takes place over a very, very short rotation of the nut. This is close enough to zero lash as to make no difference. (and the point will be very close to where you can hand tighten the nut on the rocker)
Then you want to add your preload. In an LT1, with stock lifters, I would go with an additional 1/2 turn (they want you to mark the nut so you can tell how much more you have turned it for preload). This preload adjustment can vary depending on the type of lifter, so follow manufacturer recommendations. Then you run your set-screw down. (all this ignores rotating the engine so that you are on the base circle of the cam when adjusting, I assume you have understood that part).
Once you initially set the lash/with preload, if you go back later, the pushrod will be loose. The oil has bled out. DO NOT RETIGHTEN THAT NUT! It will pump back up (as designed) when you start the car.
Once you do one of them, you will be an expert. The next 7 will be done in short order.
Then you want to add your preload. In an LT1, with stock lifters, I would go with an additional 1/2 turn (they want you to mark the nut so you can tell how much more you have turned it for preload). This preload adjustment can vary depending on the type of lifter, so follow manufacturer recommendations. Then you run your set-screw down. (all this ignores rotating the engine so that you are on the base circle of the cam when adjusting, I assume you have understood that part).
Once you initially set the lash/with preload, if you go back later, the pushrod will be loose. The oil has bled out. DO NOT RETIGHTEN THAT NUT! It will pump back up (as designed) when you start the car.
Once you do one of them, you will be an expert. The next 7 will be done in short order.
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