When you guys adjust your valve lash after a cam swap how are you setting your valve lash?

I got my car running last weekend after I blew a head gasket and now i have popping in the exhaust when I'm decelerating. I used the EO/IC method and tightened the nut while wiggling the pushrod up and down. Right when i got to the point where it would no longer move up and down i gave it 1/2 a turn for preload, then tightened the lock. Does this sound right? I'm wondereing if i have a valve that isn't quite right, and about the only easy way to solve this is by resetting the rockers while the car is on right?

When setting the Lash do you do it with the lifters pumped up, or are you taking the lifters apart and then reassembling them and then setting the lash (I was told that is the only true way to set lash with a hydraulic lifter) This is how I did it when I assembled the engine and it worked fine.

When doing the timing at WOT on a FI car, what is the rule of thumb with the timing? I guess what i'm looking for is do you wait till the torque peak and then start bringing it down as the RPM increases? That seems to be kind-of the way i have seen other's Maps. They all seem to fall down a few deg's in the upper revs. Mine goes from 30 at 4k down to 24 by 6K. Just curious how this compares to others and why it is. Thanks

Bill

 

I adjust stockers about 1/2 to 3/4 past zero lash, comp Rs 1/4 or so past 0.

I hate adjusting them while running, its a pita. I just adjust them like you did. get lifter on basecircle, get to no lash, then go another X degrees.

 

I just did a head/cam swap, and installed a set of Comp R's. As Jordan said, I go about 1/4 turn past zero lash and lock the nut. After I got the car running, I drove it around town, parked it in the garage, shut the car off and checked the lash again with the motor warm and the lifters pumped. I have had no problems going doing this, and going 1/4 turn past zero with the Comp R's, or the stockers as well.



Nick

 

I guess i should have been a little more clear, they are Pro Form self-centering roller rockers. I know its a PITA to do it while its running, but its near impossible to get at the hub with all the intercooler piping running in front of it. I turned it with a wrench when i did the adjustment but all the plugs were out, so no compression. I doubt i would get that thing to spin without getting a full workout with all the plugs in, and its a good 2 hours to replace them, thats why i suggested the running method. Thanks for the input guys.

Anyone on the Timing>?

Bill

 

not sure why you need to get to the balancer... I just use a remote starter to bump the motor over..