Well its the first time I changed plugs and wires using the below method and it was a breeze!!

(Passenger side instuctions)

Removed passenger side motor mount ( 3"+ of lift)

Removed ALT.

I used only a 5/8 socket, 1" and 3" ext and got to all the plugs on the Passenger side with ease. With the motor lifted it allowed perfect access to all plugs and wires. I did not even have to losen the power steering pump to route the new wires into the factory block holders..Just slipes them in and pushed them into place.
I was very carefull to retain all the factory plastics snap holders and reused them.

Lowed motor and reinstalled motor mount, Alternator,Belt

(Driver side)

Very easy... Plugs1,3,5 all from atop and 7 from down below and all plug wires from under the car also. Retained all factory plactics snaps and routed #7 wire back into the metal retainer on the block.

Ive changed them before by droping the Y pipe, starter, losen up the PS pump, Removed Alt and the rest of the mess and its so not worth it doing it that way. Alt, Belt, and Pass side motor mount was that was removed for the change and no contorting of Human body parts was needed with the motor jacked up a little.

They can be done very easy in under 3hrs if I had all my tools and parts ready when I started.

For all people considering droping the Y pipe and all that crap dont do it!! Please use the above method and save your self a world of greif

Later, Jason Coffman

 

i can change my wires/plugs in about an hour....only think i take off is the alternator

 

Well my 96 with headers I could also. Im a big guy and my arms wont fit without lifting the motor up a little.

This was done with stock manifolds also.

 

Thanks firepheasent. It will be my 1st time changing plugs/wires next week, I will definately try your approach.
1 question, where did you put the jack to lift the motor up a tad ? Did you lift both sides or just the pass ? Thx in advance.

 

Unbolt the Pass side motor mount only. I took the main bolt in the rubber mount out. You will need a strong air gun,swivel ext, and a 15mm socket for the front bolt and a 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the back side of the mount. Having a freind hold the 18mm on the back will help you alot. Its a little pain to get to the 18mm but its not that bad..The wrench goes between the Y pipe and the oil pan and then find the best grip on the wrench as possible as the air gun will twist the **** out of your fingers if you have a bad grip.
Assuming the car is up on stands at this point take your jack and a peice of wood or steel and jack up under on the tensioner bracket (very sturdy) and releive the tension on the motor mount bolt so you can remove it. The ac lines will be a little in you way once the bolt is 90% out but just push them a little out of the way like a 1/4" or something. Once the bolt is out proceed to jack the motor up slowly untill it cant go up any higher..3"-4" will be about it. Ta da!!! Perfect access to all plugs and wires. make sure to remove the Alt as it will give perfect access to the front plugs when jacked up. You might have to losen the Ps pump to reroute your wires if you going with 8mm plus in size.

Also I cant stress enough to take your time undoing all the factory plastic wires holders using a small flat head srewdriver(long and short) The holder under the PS pump will unsnap from the top of its self and gently bend it over and down to clear the Pully and your home free. TAKE YOUR TIME!!

Driver side advice.... For the very back plugs wire. From under the car bend down the metal holder that retains the wire just enough To pull it out. When reinstaling the wire you will have to fish the wire between the block and the cat and slip the wire back into the holder and bend it back a little to secure it. Make sure no wires are touching any exhaust parts and your done.

Good luck,
Jason Coffman

......Feel free to email me if you have any ?s

 

Jason, very cool. Thankyou for the great info.

 

i recommend trying this method because i went the other way and dropped the ypipe. routing the plug wires that way was horrid, i've got so many cuts on my hands it looks like i stuck them under a running lawn mower!
my car has dual cats since it's a 97 and dropping the driver's side cat is probably needed to get the plugs/wires on that side but when you break a stud to that flange it really puts a damper on your day. jack upt he motor for the passenger side.
i've done 12 hours on this wire/plug change because of hte broken stud and trying to rout 8mm wires in stock locations...it's been hell.

Michael.