1.6 Rocker arms and springs, how much hp and torque?
1.6 Rocker arms and springs, how much hp and torque?
Is there a ballpark figure of what 1.6 roller rocker arms and good valvesprings will do for an LT1?
I am contemplating doing this mod next, I have the mods listed in my sig. How much more work and time does it take to do the cam in addition to the rocker arms? Is it really as do-able as most people say?
I am contemplating doing this mod next, I have the mods listed in my sig. How much more work and time does it take to do the cam in addition to the rocker arms? Is it really as do-able as most people say?
Do a search for the rocker arm questions..... there was a good thread on it about a month ago. I think someone had a gain of 18rwhp with it or something? I think it varies.... Its a fairly simple mod, especially with a good install guide. Do a search for that too.
The cam is quite a bit more work. But if you want to get into the motor, you might as well do it right and do heads and a cam
The cam is quite a bit more work. But if you want to get into the motor, you might as well do it right and do heads and a cam
It depends on how the engine is set up.... is it a stock engine? What type of intake system? What type of exhaust system? Any cut-outs or off-road pipes? The rocker arms will add lift to your cam but the effects of flow vary on the type of set up you are running.
Also, I've heard that springs are recommended but not required. Be sure that when you do get the springs that they will match the cam that you eventually get... no need in changing them twice. Some cams have so much lift that you need to machine the heads and shim... keep that in mind.
Speaking of cam, there are a few good pages with pics on cam swaps. Changing the rockers are simple with valve covers, egrs if they are in the way, and the alternator & bracket... you'll have full access.
The cam swap requires the fuel rail, intake manifold, water pump, opti, etc... a bit more involved but not impossible if you follow the steps. Again, there are a few good sites that really explain the process well.
Also, I've heard that springs are recommended but not required. Be sure that when you do get the springs that they will match the cam that you eventually get... no need in changing them twice. Some cams have so much lift that you need to machine the heads and shim... keep that in mind.
Speaking of cam, there are a few good pages with pics on cam swaps. Changing the rockers are simple with valve covers, egrs if they are in the way, and the alternator & bracket... you'll have full access.
The cam swap requires the fuel rail, intake manifold, water pump, opti, etc... a bit more involved but not impossible if you follow the steps. Again, there are a few good sites that really explain the process well.
Originally posted by Wild1
It depends on how the engine is set up.... is it a stock engine? What type of intake system? What type of exhaust system? Any cut-outs or off-road pipes? The rocker arms will add lift to your cam but the effects of flow vary on the type of set up you are running.
Also, I've heard that springs are recommended but not required. Be sure that when you do get the springs that they will match the cam that you eventually get... no need in changing them twice. Some cams have so much lift that you need to machine the heads and shim... keep that in mind.
Speaking of cam, there are a few good pages with pics on cam swaps. Changing the rockers are simple with valve covers, egrs if they are in the way, and the alternator & bracket... you'll have full access.
The cam swap requires the fuel rail, intake manifold, water pump, opti, etc... a bit more involved but not impossible if you follow the steps. Again, there are a few good sites that really explain the process well.
It depends on how the engine is set up.... is it a stock engine? What type of intake system? What type of exhaust system? Any cut-outs or off-road pipes? The rocker arms will add lift to your cam but the effects of flow vary on the type of set up you are running.
Also, I've heard that springs are recommended but not required. Be sure that when you do get the springs that they will match the cam that you eventually get... no need in changing them twice. Some cams have so much lift that you need to machine the heads and shim... keep that in mind.
Speaking of cam, there are a few good pages with pics on cam swaps. Changing the rockers are simple with valve covers, egrs if they are in the way, and the alternator & bracket... you'll have full access.
The cam swap requires the fuel rail, intake manifold, water pump, opti, etc... a bit more involved but not impossible if you follow the steps. Again, there are a few good sites that really explain the process well.
The intake is an SLP cold air unit, exhaust is an SLP Loudmouth, AS&M headers, and stock catalytic.
You should see at least 12 to 15 hp on a stock motor. As far as go ahead and change the cam... There is alot more involved than if you just change the rockers. But 1.6s is a good start.What type of spring compressor are you gonna use during the swap? I like the lever type over the screw type a whole lot easier.
1le bellow,58mm TB, ported intake, Granatelli Maf, under drive crank pulley, stock manifolds/ slp 3 inchSS exhaust, I installed Crane Gold Series RR's and LT4 springs, saw 11rwhp at the time, putting me at 261rwhp back then.
Clubbin 54 - you've got the intake and full exhaust down... nice choices. With that, you can get about 12-15 from what I hear. The more free flowing the system, the greater the benefits.
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