After installing my LE1 package and supporting mods, I am experiancing a bit of a rough ride below 2,000 rpm. The car also has to be revved up to over 1k when I start it up for it to start idling correctly, because it wants to idle at like 500 rpm when I first start it

Here is my log in excel format of all the important sensors.
The data is of me driving home after getting the car warmed up.

I have highlighted the data in Yellow which is me Idling at the end of the trip

I am concerned about my Spark advance, MAP, Fuel Trim, O2 readings, IAC, etc

Please have a look and Any input would be great, thanks for your time

http://www.ucs.louisiana.edu/~njr8954/diag1.xls

Also, let me know if everything just looks normal

 

What value should the MAP read on a Heads/cam lt1 at idle?

 

My map reads ~19 at idle with my cam, its between an LE1 and 2 cam.

 

My map seems normal then, but what about short and Long term fuel trim
Mine seem kind of large at times

 

Have you had any PCM tuning?

 

yes, PcmforLess was supposed to tune for the head cam package and the larger injectors

Does it seem like it is not a good tune from the fuel trims?

 

I'de get a dyno tune, mail order tunes are good for getting it running and getting it semi-close, but with heads/cam cars there's no substitute for a good dyno tune. Where are you located at?

 

I am 50 miles from ThunderRacing, but i really dont wanna pay $550 for a dyno tune

I would rather make 11 trips to Pcmforless

 

It would be stupid to spend all the $$ on the car for the heads/cam swap and leaving all that power/driveability on the table by not doing a dyno tune.... Not to mention how much safer dyno tunes are, my tuner ended up taking 5 degrees of timing out of my car over my PCMforless tune, and I gained ALOT of power under the curve, 30rwtq at 3K is a nice feeling.

 

Alot of "dyno tuners" have a one way line of thought--tune WOT. You will get max performance (and hopefully safety) with a dynotune but that is only for one condition (wide open throttle while sitting motionless indoors). While tuning on a chassis dyno is very valuable, it is only part of the whole equation.
When I perform a dynotune, if it is not a club day or something, I tune the cars for WOT, idle and then I take a drive on the street and do a quick tweak for partial throttle/light load conditions if it needs it. I may not have enough experience to "nail" the partial throttle stuff yet, but it is always some sort of improvement.
It helps me to actually ride in the car while scanning so I can see/hear/feel anything abnormal.
Bringbackcamaro, sometimes I can see tell what is wrong by viewing a log of sensor data, but I see nothing obviously wrong with your supplied data.
I want to say with the larger cam your VE will be lower on the lower RPMS and therefore maybe you should try a little more timing--however, if your symptoms are those of "cam surge," then you may have to add fuel and/or take out a little bit of timing to smooth it out. Your sensors look to be returning normal values.

Michael

 

Michael,
Thanks for your input, that is the exact response I was looking for with reguard to my data.

I basically just wanted to make sure everything was in the normal range so it would be safe eneugh to drive out to Baton Rouge and get the car dynoed.

Then with the Wide band 02 readings and dyno, I could send the PCM back to pcmforless if needed.

 

My tuner (Jeremy Formato) does a dyno tune and also a street tune on every car he tunes. But I agree, $500 or more for a dyno tune that is just a dyno tune only is a ripoff.

He'll never know what to do with timing though, A/F is one thing, timing is another. Like I said, I gained power everywhere when my tuner took out timing, and my other friends car that had a PCMforless tune was the same way, it made more power with less timing than the mail order.

 

Maybe check your IAC? I think those idle numbers are high from what I remember.

 

There's something weird happening when you start to open the throttle. In every instance, the ignition advance approaches "0" (even goes to "-1") when you transition from closed throttle. Look at time stamps:

60916.25
60975.45
61016.75
61117.65
61137.83

You've also need a faster scan rate... you are running 1.3+ seconds per frame. Delete all the duplicate items (you have MAF logged 4 times). Pick a preferred unit of measure for each item and delete the extra.... e.g. you don't need both "Hg and kPa for MAP. Add the "Cell" to the log. That may help sort out the long terms and possibly point to the causes for the problems.

 

This is the way to do it. Well put.

I noticed this as well. I've never seen anything like that, unless the data was messed up when it was put in excel. It also looks like you have more timing than you should in certain spots. If the car is converted to OBDI, I could take a look at the tune for you.