Continued from this thread: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=660536


much bigger problems than desired on first start, the motor is fine and sounds strong, but i only heard it turn over maybe 3 times.... until it stopped dead.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=349119

that is my problem now, clutch fork/clutch/tranny?

it seems now when i try to crank the motor over its trying to crank the whole driveline, even with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. brand new flywheel, clutch, and hydraulics.

Here is a list of all symptoms i have to date.

-Engine cranked over 4 times for less than 2 sec at a time. with 3hp starter
-Seized two 3HP starter solenoids. Tried stock once. and wouldn't turn engine at all.
-on 2 of the 4 starts, there was a high pitch metal to metal sound. engine was turned off IMMEDIATELY. (not starter, came from clutch area)
-Clutch & gear shifting had 2 separate symptoms, seemed to depend on how much egine was cranked.
1)Clutch pedal was normal and can get into all gears while down,pretty much stock feel
2)Clutch resistance TRIPPLED at 75% of the way down to floor. and when forced, could not get into gears 2, 3, and 5
-1 year ago, i tried to install a RAM HD clutch and it would not disengage all of the way. I could drive the car, but not shift into 1st when car was on at a stand still. this was fixed when i went with a Stock lt4 pp/clutch disk.
-Master/slave brand new from GM less than 2000 miles on them. worked fine on lt4 setup.

Clutch fork? T stud? fork bolt? Syncros?

 

40 views and nothing?
anyone have any disengagement issues with the t56?

 

ttt?

 

This makes me think you have something binding. Could be a misaligned PP, bent fork, could still be hydraulics. First try bleeding the hydraulics. Probably good, but you never know. Next, pull off the slave and the spacer, reattach the slave, and get someone else to push in the clutch while you look up inside the bellhousing. See how the clutch is acting.

After that, you are probably going to have to tear the tranny back out and see what's up. I know you don't want to hear that, but it's probably going to end up that way. Good luck.

 

yeah i figured id have to pull the tranny back out :/ boo.
how could the pp be misaligned? i used the small install tool, and torqued down all the bolts to 20 ft/lbs, and it looked exactly like it did when i took it out :/
i do have a new aluminum. flywheel and new 6 puck clutch disk though.

 

Did you build the motor?
How SURE are you that it is a Tranny/clutch problem?

EDIT: nevermind, just read your other thread.

 

the motor is perfect. no question about that. any thoughts on it being the clutch fork bolt? and the fork would be hitting the pressure plate?

 

I have had my fork not go on all of the way before. This was due to design of the throwout bearings nut shape. It was basically rotated wrong for the fork to slip on correctly.

I have also had my clutch fork bolt break before. (the one that it pivots off of) This made metal to metal sound until engine stalled. (upon removal It scraped the pressure plate up on the outer painted portion)

The way your describing the pressure from the clutch pedal, sounds like binding in the fork area for sure. I would pull the slave cylinder, and take a peak in there to see if you see anything abnormal, before pulling tranny. (it might be that the fork was just not on right)

 

check ur fork on the throw out bearing. sounds like its miss aligned.
I did the same thing on mine when i put my new motor in.

 

thanks for responses guys. ill be checking it out tomorrow evening. hopefully the fork is the issue. any other feedback is still appreciated.

 

Pulled Slave this is what i found.....



As suspected. its the Pressure plate, outer edge

where they were coming in contact...



Im pretty sure it was a bad spring in the fork. there was a lot of play and the rivet holding the spring down was not tight. hope the new fork i ordered will fix this issue. if not, would you recommend grinding down the T-stud?

 

Bought new fork, shaved T stud down less than .050"
Problem went away 99%, i should have ground the t-stud down a little more, when the pedal is FULLY PRESSED to the floor with more pressure than normal there is a small tick of the fork hitting the PP but nothing that would hinder the performance, itll be fixed soon.
car runs AMAZING, theres so much power, and i only went to 4k with 26 miles on the new engine so far. thanks for the help guys.

 

Good deal glad to see it worked out for you. Now if I can only get my car back together.