Has any every pulled the pan while the motor was still in the car? there are things i know i have to take off to get it out but will it clear the crossmember?
Also I im not planning a rebuild for awhile, but i want to put a high volume oil pump in because i dont like the 30 psi (stock gauge) @5500. pple say thats ok but i dont like it,and i want to get as much like out of the 117000 mile lt1 as possible.do you think its a good idea?
The motor has no sign of loose bearing the only time the oil pressure fluctuation is under heavy drag pull, but i under stain that some pple have problems with the stock pan some dont.
Dont think im wasten my time ???? Or would it be good for milk the life out of the lt1.

 

It can be done but it is a little harder with a manual as it there are more pan interference issues than with an Automatic. This is from memory but it should provide enough info to get the job done.

1) With you car securely supported on jack stands unbolt driver and passenger motor mounts.

2)You may need to remove the radiator prior to lifting the front of your engine.

3) lift on the front of the motor with a engine hoist (do not jack up the motor at the crank hub as this is not very good for the bearings or the hub). Use caution when lifting the front of the motor don't crush anything against the firewall.

4) Unbolt the pan

5) With the motor up on front as far as it will go, you will need to drop the front K-Member down in order to clear your T-56 transmission with the pan. I think I had to drop the K-Member down about 2-3 inches to get the pan out.

 

do you thinkits a good idea ??? hot with 0w40 mobil idles 10-13 psi and 2000 25 psi, 28 30 at 6000. Or shouyld i just leave it alone and not try to fix some that isnt broke.

 

I have also heard that with a high volume pump, you can starve the motor at higher rpm's with the stock oil pan. That is why I didn't put in a new pump on my rebuild.

ZMAN