LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Pics of my alternator relocation setup

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 07:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rmackintosh
Yup....I just finished this as well.....and my CS 130 alternator is WAAAAAAAAAAAAY tighter to the block than that....and I have MAYBE 3/4 clearance to the frame.....



Gonna hafta get it tighter to the block....

Check out these pics....

http://home.comcast.net/~rmackintosh/Site/Engine.html
NICEEEEEEE pics!

Time to get out the sawzall and TIG. I think I'm just gonna fab it in the car and actually weld the brackets to the accesory bracket.
Old Apr 5, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Loadre
NICEEEEEEE pics!

Time to get out the sawzall and TIG. I think I'm just gonna fab it in the car and actually weld the brackets to the accesory bracket.

You did it RIGHT...with a heavy piece of metal instead of a thin aluminum strap that a lot use.....you should try and get an attachment point on the back somewhere also to prevent the alternator from "walking" on high rpm.....
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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I am finally getting into this on my T/A.

I scored an extra bracket for free, so I can hack that one up if needed, I still have my stock bracket.

Is the bracket made of Aluminum? That is what I am assuming.

So if I plan on bracing the bracket or welding to it, the pieces need to be Aluminum and TIG welded?

Thanks,
Ken
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Loadre
NICEEEEEEE pics!

Time to get out the sawzall and TIG. I think I'm just gonna fab it in the car and actually weld the brackets to the accesory bracket.
I just got an email note that this thread had been updated (since I last posted no less..); go figure...

At any rate, my setup is very similar as far as design, but I opted to use the factory alternator; I could have just as easily used a smaller one (and still may). I machined a bit of 1/2" 6061 T6 for the rear mount, and tig'ed it to the upper pulley riser. I also milled out a new seat for the gates idler pulley so that a replacement will just slip on and bolt up. Tig'ed it on there as well. I don't think the alternator is going ANYWHERE anytime soon.

Where's a good place to post up pics and link to them? I'd be interested in seeing what you guys think and getting ideas for improvement..

Dave C.

Last edited by CCCCCYA; Apr 16, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #20  
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Very nice guys, great work!!!!!
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 9T7 Trans Am
I am finally getting into this on my T/A.

I scored an extra bracket for free, so I can hack that one up if needed, I still have my stock bracket.

Is the bracket made of Aluminum? That is what I am assuming.

So if I plan on bracing the bracket or welding to it, the pieces need to be Aluminum and TIG welded?

Thanks,
Ken
Yup the bracket it made of aluminum. THe bracket you make doesn't HAVE to be aluminum is just might be easier for your TIG guy to weld up. Yes you have to TIG it since you're welding aluminum, whether the brace you make is aluminum, steel, whatever. The flat plate that is welded on the top of my acc. bracket is a little less than 1/4" aluminum.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CCCCCYA
I just got an email note that this thread had been updated (since I last posted no less..); go figure...

At any rate, my setup is very similar as far as design, but I opted to use the factory alternator; I could have just as easily used a smaller one (and still may). I machined a bit of 1/2" 6061 T6 for the rear mount, and tig'ed it to the upper pulley riser. I also milled out a new seat for the gates idler pulley so that a replacement will just slip on and bolt up. Tig'ed it on there as well. I don't think the alternator is going ANYWHERE anytime soon.

Where's a good place to post up pics and link to them? I'd be interested in seeing what you guys think and getting ideas for improvement..

Dave C.

That's the factory alt on mine too. Just got it back from being rebuilt when I took those pics. Go to putfile.com and set up and account. I wanna see what you've got so I can get some ideas in my head about how i'm gonna go.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BlackDog
Very nice guys, great work!!!!!
It might have been great work, but it still won't fit in the engine bay!

lol
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:38 PM
  #24  
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thats what i was about to say. is it going to fit? i relocated mine and replaced it with a smaller custom alternator, and mine barely fits. it is tight. you can click on my page to see it.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:11 PM
  #25  
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OK, here's my junk.. Pretty much in order of fabrication... I still have to powder coat and bolt in. Currently putting new pistons in so on the bench this will sit till she's ready again..

















Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:12 PM
  #26  
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Thats pretty much it.. I may mill up a secondary mount for the rear, but only if this gives me issues..

So what can I improve on here guys?
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #27  
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dang , you went all out.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #28  
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DADDY LIKEY! That's how I'm gonna do mine now. Get it mounted in the car to see if that bracket you welded to the side is gonna fit alright. I'd say you won't have a problem out of it. That's some pretty thick stuff.

Also, did you grind down the back of the alternator where it mounts on the bottom bolt to get it to sit flat against the bracket and give correct belt alignment? I took a lot of material off the backside of mine.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #29  
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Oh, it fits. It's been in and out of the car probably 15 times to make sure everything was good and it was still easy to change the alternator, easy to reach the mounting bolts, easy to get to the P/S hookups, etc. etc.. I always mock up a ton before final welding. The bracket on the side is 1/2" 6061 T6 milled to fit and chamfered back with a 60* end mill to about a 3/16 width chamfer to give the weld somewhere to go and to provide a solid weld. I just left the top squared cause it's work for nothing, and I may want to come back with a brace to the front of the alt later if the welds look like the might be compromised from vibration or something. Kinda a built in backup plan in the design...

No grinding on the alternator. I spot-faced the bottom and top mounting holes (when you've got a mill at home, you tend to LOOK for things to do with it. lol ). You could just as easily spot -face it with the proper bit, a hand drill/drill press, and a stead hand though.

I really don't expect to have any trouble with it, and it should look pretty solid when powder coated. There are a couple places that need to be clearenced on the car though. As you will find out, the little tang on the suspension bolt keeper (for lack of a better term) needs to be cut a little, and there is the end of a bolt sticking out down there near the frame that needs to go too. I just hit it with a dremmel with a cut-off wheel. Took it off in no time flat (love that thing). All I have to do now is go get the proper length belt and I'm in business.

Good luck with yours bro. It's a bit of a pain but being able to pull the valve covers without tearing everything apart will be worth it.

Dave C.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:44 PM
  #30  
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What if you want AC?



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